125m, 4 pitches.
4 Pitch sport climb on the north face of Roque de Enmedio. Bolted in 1993 initially the route has been re bolted several times due to the salty Atlantic air (the Ocean is close by and the Trade winds blow strong), most recently re equipped circa 2018.
The grade depends on where you look but it varies between 5 and 5+ depending on personal opinion. One reason for stiffer grading is due to long run outs between bolts, up tp 4m in some cases. Rock quality is good and very compact so placing additional gear is almost impossible save a few slings perhaps but it isn't really needed.
Pitch 1: 4c - 25m
Pitch 2: 5b - 35m
Pitch 3: 5a - 35m
Pitch 4: 4a - 25m
All stances are bolted (2x bolts and hangers). RThe last pitch is only 2 bolts, then a 15m scramble up to the anchor.
Approach is perhaps the hardest part. After exiting the tunnel you start the descent to the town of Taganana. After a few curves there is a lay-by on the right and a viewing area. Park here (don't leave valuables on show). The is a small spire next to the parking spot and a path running down alongside. Follow the path toward Roque de Enmedio (clearly visible ahead). Pass its E flank and keep heading down until you see an electricity pylon as you look at the N face. Scramble to the Pylon and from there traverse right over a rock band (grade 2 scramble). From the top of the band you should see the base of the wall and two large bushes tall than the rest, the slightly smaller on on the left is right at the base of the route. You'll know you're at the base as the is a small clearing. The first bolt is about 3-4m high so look carefully.
The grade depends on where you look but it varies between 5 and 5+ depending on personal opinion. One reason for stiffer grading is due to long run outs between bolts, up tp 4m in some cases. Rock quality is good and very compact so placing additional gear is almost impossible save a few slings perhaps but it isn't really needed.
Pitch 1: 4c - 25m
Pitch 2: 5b - 35m
Pitch 3: 5a - 35m
Pitch 4: 4a - 25m
All stances are bolted (2x bolts and hangers). RThe last pitch is only 2 bolts, then a 15m scramble up to the anchor.
Approach is perhaps the hardest part. After exiting the tunnel you start the descent to the town of Taganana. After a few curves there is a lay-by on the right and a viewing area. Park here (don't leave valuables on show). The is a small spire next to the parking spot and a path running down alongside. Follow the path toward Roque de Enmedio (clearly visible ahead). Pass its E flank and keep heading down until you see an electricity pylon as you look at the N face. Scramble to the Pylon and from there traverse right over a rock band (grade 2 scramble). From the top of the band you should see the base of the wall and two large bushes tall than the rest, the slightly smaller on on the left is right at the base of the route. You'll know you're at the base as the is a small clearing. The first bolt is about 3-4m high so look carefully.
1993.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adam Russell | 20 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: The viewing area mentioned for parking is now 5 minute max stay. Parking available another 300m down the hill on the right, in a flat gravelly area. All bolts and belays in good condition. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The viewing area mentioned for parking is now 5 minute max stay. Parking available another 300m down the hill on the right, in a flat gravelly area. All bolts and belays in good condition. |
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