UKC

Climbs 200
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces N

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Rocher du Roquebrune © johnwright

Crag features

The crag can be seen from the Autoroute (A8) and the Marseille-Nice train line. There are some big buttresses, and many boulders lower down the slope. The rock type is arkosic sandstone, while some boulders appear to be of conglomerate with embedded smooth volcanic stones. The buttresses are big and fairly featureless with very few cracks, but there are some big crack lines on the upper buttresses that can be seen from the autoroute and the train.

 

Most of the climbing is bouldering, with the problems marked with painted arrows. The climbing tends to be fairly committing as the landings are mostly stone, however the majority of the problems are in the low grades. There are plenty of boulders on the open slopes that are mainly small to medium in size, on the higher slopes there are larger boulders. The oldest sector, Sika Thé, also has some larger boulders, a couple even with bolts. 


Very close to the Autoroute (A8) there is a carpark at the edge of a wood, behind this carpark in the wood there are many large boulders, this appears to be the most popular area, but the rock tends to be a bit green. Most of the sectors are north-facing and slow-drying; the exception is the sector Le Menhir, situated high on the south side of the mountain and exposed to sun and wind. It seems that the whole mountain is on private land but the local commune have negotiated some access footpaths and there are designated car parks.

Approach notes

Plenty of parking on verges and small car parks.

Without a car: take bus 04 from Frejus or Saint-Raphaël and get off at Roquebrune Village. Walk towards the mountain passing Chapelle Saint-Roch. At the fork by a plantation of palm and olive trees, go right for the north-facing sectors, which are close to the sign-posted hiking paths that leave from the three car parks on that side. For Le Menhir, go left at the plantation and follow the GR51 for 3.5 km until it turns left at a four-way crossroads. Continue straight towards the col until you reach three boulders on the path, the beginning of the sector. 

No Access Issues

Plenty of parking on verges and small car parks.

I think there are access problems with this crag (although bouldering might be OK). It was excluded from the most recent Esterel guide for that reason.
Removed User - 17/Nov/10
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