Climbs 95
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces NW
Russ on The Web E6 © whistler
A superb cliff with the best selection of mid-extremes in the North East. Mostly non-tidal, with thin delicate slabs on the landward side of the ridge, and merciless stamina pitches in the box zawn and outer walls. The outer walls get the evening sun, but a good breeze is useful to avoid any greasiness.
Reach the Quarryhead Farm and continue down to the track to a gate (57.681065, -2.159111), open the gate and drive through (don't forget to close it again!) and down to an aslphalt parking area (57.683394, -2.160093).
Walk back (south) on the track towards the fence by the helipad and then walk west and south-west along the fence until the large geo of the North and South Walls is seen (57.679390, -2.165892).
Best access is by abseil into non-tidal platforms, although scrambling is also possible.
Climbers are very welcome to park down the lane beside the ruin. Just be sure to close the gates.
If you were to follow the Eastern fringe of the UK, this is the best venue for the E2-E5 leader north of Bowden Doors! To get anywhere better you'd have to go all the way around the coast to Sheigra. Fiend - 23/Sep/13 |
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Excellent venue for anyone climbing in the E2-E5 range Dave Kerr - 10/Jul/06 |
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