UKC

Climbs 60
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Crag features

Only 10km from Edinburgh (and easily accessable by bus), Roslin Glen provides a large number of short (<30m), hard routes. Varilble rock quality means protection can be interesting, but in general the rock on the East bank is good. Many of the top outs are sandy/manky so for the harder routes it may be worthwhile cleaning the top before climbing! Expect an adventure when climbing here!

Best times are spring and autumn as dense undergrowth and midgies can be a problem.

Recommended routes include: Wrinklies (E3), Gaping Gab (E2), Claymore Crack (E1) and Harry Dodders Crack (E1)

 

The crags are all now overgrown and fairy inaccessible. 

 

Approach notes

For West Bank cliffs (Jumbos bum and red cliff) approach via Roslin Chapel - 20min walk upstream

For East Bank cliffs (Wallaces cave, Lovers leap and hanging butress) approach from Rosewell through fields to pick up numerous paths. River can often be forded to approach from the chapel side.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 25/Mar/2023

Restricted Access

Restricted access to Red Cliff from 31st March to 31st July - Schedule 1 nesting birds.

Conditions (on Jumbos bum at least) are currently ideal. Get in before the vegetation returns. However, please extend topropes over the edge to avoid rope erosion.
Dr Toph - 06/Mar/22
Watch out if park at the official Midlothian Roslin Glen car park (NT278628) as it is properly locked after 20:00 at night! Also, no sign of any new paths east side - still a full on bush whack the earlier you leave the road. Go right up the road and round the fields.
timlukins - 25/May/12
looks better than previously as there appears to be a new path built on that side of the river.... have been plannin an exploratory trip in the next couple of weeks, so ill report back, or your welcome to come join. but everything down there is always a bit of an adventure so beware
Neil Mackenzie - 20/Mar/11
Anyone know what the access is like for Hanging Rock these days?
Dr Toph - 20/Mar/11
Definitely a worthwhile place to climb, some good fun routes on fairly good rock. The small road between Rosewell and Roslin is closed due to land slip but there are other roads. Good evening venue in a picturesque setting.
Rob Askew - 10/May/10
Jumbo's Bum is worthwhile as a top-roping venue for open minded climbers looking to get away from the monotony of south quarry visits. A few hard climbs on interesting rock with really interesting moves to work away at over a few visits (sort of long bouldering problems on a rope). Great place to get strong and only a pound on the bus!!!! (no. 15). Lovely setting too.
camw - 23/Mar/08
Visited Feb 2007. What a desperate venue! You'd be mad to climb on anything other than the Elephants Bum crag, and even that requires baws of steel. A limited top-rope venue or one for the psychotic with a death wish!
220bpm - 31/May/07
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