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Climbs 10
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 22m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

This is a crazy impressive NW-facing wall of slate that's been quarried away to form a giant Z-shaped gash across the entire width of a small hill.

Impressive, but also super sketchy with giant flakes of slate on the opposing wall looking like they could fall off at any point. The 'floor' of the gash at the west end is OK but gets more and more sketchy as you move east where it is a bunch of car-sized blocks that have fallen off/been abandoned with lots of gaps and holes in between them - so watch your footing!

The whole thing is cordoned off behind a fence with 'DANGER - Keep out' signs so you can't say you weren't warned.

Lowland Outcrops grid ref is wrong but description is correct that it's on the second headland beyond Sallochy car park. The guidebook suggests approaching the East end of the 'gash' but in fact all the listed climbs are at the west end and it's a much less sketchy approach there.

On the main face there is clear evidence of rusting bolt lines and a few pegs but they are all super-rusted and definitely not viable protection. It won't get any sun and could be quite wet in winter.

There are trees growing on the top of the hill behind so in theory you could get a top rope in place.

The 'cracked block' is visible at the end of the gash in the photos attached - there are a few possible routes on that, but beware that the whole thing looks super-sketchy with some big 'slabs' of slate looking like they could come away at any moment.

If you're curious by all means pay a visit but don't expect to do much climbing!

Approach notes

Park at Sallochy Bay car park, and walk north along the West Highland Way round the shoreline to the University of Glasgow boat house.

Just after the jetty stay left along the shoreline (no longer the WHW) and pass the first promentary. The path dips then rises again and at the next corner, leave the track here and walk directly south through woods round the west (RHS) side of the first small hill with Conifers on top. 

There is no path at this point - just follow your nose. You will not see anything until you get round the first hill (or are on top of it) when you will see the crag facing you on the next hill nearer the water. Head towards the west (RHS) end.

You will have to climb the wire fence and ignore the 'Danger No Entry' signs.

Approach the Crag from the west end and you will arrive immediately at the large cracked block and the routes listed.

Move round the corner and you are into the main 'gash' which gets more and more sketch underfoot at you head east.

Access Advice

This crag is a disused quarry and is fence off with a 4ft high wire fence and 'Danger, No Entry' Signs.

You will have to climb the fence and ignore the signs to get access.

You will clearly be accepting all responsibility for your safety at this point.

The 'floor' of the gash at the west end is fairly solid, but as you move round and along the gash it gets more and more precarious, ending up scrambling over (or under!) large car-sized blocks of slate piled up along the bottom. The facing slate wall is very loose with lots of flakes just waiting to fall off.

Do not bring dogs, small children, or people of a nervous disposition.

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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Kevin Woods