UKC

15m. Really a VS 5a. Easy climbing to a well protected offwidth. Friend 4 very handy. Variety of methods available including laybacking, jamming and cunning.

2 options at start - either take the corner crack lines on the opposite side of the pillar to cathy, or head directly up the face of the pillar to reach the ledge before the off width - which is a considerably more satisfying approach.

J. Rice 1972.

Ticklists

Scottish Central Belt HVS , Carrotte's summer sends

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rue_Ree 30 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Went for onsight , the crux was confusing I tried a way on the face to the left,as looked most plausible to me ,nearly got it and lost my head and grabbed cam, gutted not to get the onsight because I was well capable! ! lowered to ledge climbed crux again clean and went straight to bottom and climbed ground up clean.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Went for onsight , the crux was confusing I tried a way on the face to the left,as looked most plausible to me ,nearly got it and lost my head and grabbed cam, gutted not to get the onsight because I was well capable! ! lowered to ledge climbed crux again clean and went straight to bottom and climbed ground up clean.
Frauke 28 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: several big chunks came off near the top which we disposed of (very glad of the toprope!), still at least one rather loose hold up there which is best avoided.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: several big chunks came off near the top which we disposed of (very glad of the toprope!), still at least one rather loose hold up there which is best avoided.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 23
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gaucho

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Hawkcraig)

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