UKC Logbook - 'Broken Pillar'

15m. Really a VS 5a. Easy climbing to a well protected offwidth. Friend 4 very handy. Variety of methods available including laybacking, jamming and cunning.

2 options at start - either take the corner crack lines on the opposite side of the pillar to cathy, or head directly up the face of the pillar to reach the ledge before the off width - which is a considerably more satisfying approach.

J. Rice 1972.

Ticklists

Scottish Central Belt HVS , Carrotte's summer sends

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User	Date		Notes
Rue_Ree	30 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Went for onsight , the crux was confusing I tried a way on the face to the left,as looked most plausible to me ,nearly got it and lost my head and grabbed cam, gutted not to get the onsight because I was well capable! ! lowered to ledge climbed crux again clean and went straight to bottom and climbed ground up clean.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Went for onsight , the crux was confusing I tried a way on the face to the left,as looked most plausible to me ,nearly got it and lost my head and grabbed cam, gutted not to get the onsight because I was well capable! ! lowered to ledge climbed crux again clean and went straight to bottom and climbed ground up clean.
Frauke	28 Feb, 2021	Show βeta βeta: several big chunks came off near the top which we disposed of (very glad of the toprope!), still at least one rather loose hold up there which is best avoided.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: several big chunks came off near the top which we disposed of (very glad of the toprope!), still at least one rather loose hold up there which is best avoided.