UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb an arete and then a wall that ends at a large ledge. Take the groove above to a ledge and then move up right to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Some 40m left of Lanty's Groove and just right of a holly tree choked gully is a steep buttress with a shallow scooped groove in its centre.
Climb an arete and brown stained wall to reach a big ledge. Follow the hanging groove to a flat ledge and pull up right to good holds and the lower off.

Pete Whillance, Alan Towse 25/Feb/2022.

Feedback

User Date Notes
dave armstrong 7 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: BEWARE A large hold broke off the top of the lower arete narrowly missing both falling climber and belayer. Further rubbish was removed by abseil along with another large loose block just above the ledge. Both holds had been partly glued to hold in place but this was inadequate given the size of holds and fragile quality of the rock. Many other routes on the crag have had holds glued to help hold in place but this is not always effective as the above episode shows.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: BEWARE A large hold broke off the top of the lower arete narrowly missing both falling climber and belayer. Further rubbish was removed by abseil along with another large loose block just above the ledge. Both holds had been partly glued to hold in place but this was inadequate given the size of holds and fragile quality of the rock. Many other routes on the crag have had holds glued to help hold in place but this is not always effective as the above episode shows.

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tufa King Hard

Grade: 6c ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

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