UKC

Climbs 7
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SW

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Low Tide image gives idea of high tide DWS fun. © Chris Ebbutt

Crag features

Steep, weathered limestone slab climbing with abseil access from convenient tree belays. Crag is due south facing with no seepage and catches all the sun going, very sheltered. A long flat belay ledge gives easy starting access for the LH routes and is just above high tide mark. It is advisable to leave a belay/abseil rope draped over the finishes to assist with the loose top-out.

Approach notes

From Torquay's Harbour, follow signs for Daddyhole around its Marina, past the cloised 'Living Coasts' bird sanctuary and up the hill. A number of signed turnings eventually lead to the Daddyhole car park.

Walk west (right) from Daddyhole car park, past the Coastwatch tower, through various arches and down a long, stepped descent.Further along the path climbs concrete steps with viewing spots, then drops steeply, exiting through a large stone retaininmg wall landing on a larger flat tarmac path. Turn left and in 30m is a dead end with a good view of London Bridge. With care, hop over the low wall on the seaward side and this is the descent path into Dyers Quarry. Saddle Point is directley below this path with good tree belays/abseil points.

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