265m, 10 pitches.
Follows the obvious ridgeline up the south face of the central buttress on Safinah.
Ticklists
Top 10 VS/HVS Routes in Tafraout , Climb Tafraout | 100 Classic Climbs , Tafraout and Anti Atlas Mid Grade Multi Pitch , Anti-Atlas class , Morocco Anti-Atlas 24
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ErnyP | 23 Mar |
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βeta: Car to car in 4 hours Referred to the 2024 climb tafraout book which described in 10 pitches. We lead in 5 pitches on 60m ropes. We walk in and started side on to the buttress rather than the lowest point so probably on the belay for pitch 2. Lead pitch 2/3 (55m) then pitch 4/5 (60m) mark lead pitch 6 (30m) I lead pitch 7/8 (45cm) mark lead pitch 9/10 (60m) For the walk out headed north down the slabs then headed west (left) via some large white painted cairns and down the col. (30-40 mins back to car) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Car to car in 4 hours Referred to the 2024 climb tafraout book which described in 10 pitches. We lead in 5 pitches on 60m ropes. We walk in and started side on to the buttress rather than the lowest point so probably on the belay for pitch 2. Lead pitch 2/3 (55m) then pitch 4/5 (60m) mark lead pitch 6 (30m) I lead pitch 7/8 (45cm) mark lead pitch 9/10 (60m) For the walk out headed north down the slabs then headed west (left) via some large white painted cairns and down the col. (30-40 mins back to car) |
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| ipfreely | 4 Nov, 2024 |
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βeta: Probably best to do in 8 / 9 pitches. not the 6 pitches in the Crack Addicts: The Anti-Atlas, Morocco Rock guide. I would split P1 in to 2 pitches. P1:25m/30m start on the left of the toe of the buttress due to the spikes bushes, head up and right in to the open groove, continue up and left to a right trending slab, belay at bottom of the slab. P2: 20m as per guide, take the slab more on the right to stance on a ledge P3: 30m as per guide, climb the small steep wall on the left to gain the ridge on the right, follow this easily to a stance at a small bush on the ground, with a narrow gully leading off to the right and a dead bush debris filled V groove in front of you. P4: 30m wander up the route for 30m or so until good gear for a stance. P5: 30m continue up easy ground to a sloping ledge with a small boulder sat on it, with is a few meters under the over hangs. P6: 30m head up the wall to under the over hangs, where there are good gear placements & holds, tackle the over hangs on there right on good holds but not as good feet for a short time, then move back left over the over hangs, move up the lovely slab to a stance at the base of the chimney & a good sized spike/boulder to the left. P7: 35m up the chimney, then I couple of meters on its outer left wall then step across to its right side to the small hanging slab & right around the boulder, up the small groove behind the boulder to a large perched block, stay on the outside of the block moving left around it to a stance agains the wall. P8: 45m move up the wall above the block & keep trending right to the blunt arête & some great exposure from the huge gully to the right, to a small ledge under some small overhangs, either take a stance here on the left, or continue to the top via a shallow groove in the wall directly left on the small roof/overhang. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Probably best to do in 8 / 9 pitches. not the 6 pitches in the Crack Addicts: The Anti-Atlas, Morocco Rock guide. I would split P1 in to 2 pitches. P1:25m/30m start on the left of the toe of the buttress due to the spikes bushes, head up and right in to the open groove, continue up and left to a right trending slab, belay at bottom of the slab. P2: 20m as per guide, take the slab more on the right to stance on a ledge P3: 30m as per guide, climb the small steep wall on the left to gain the ridge on the right, follow this easily to a stance at a small bush on the ground, with a narrow gully leading off to the right and a dead bush debris filled V groove in front of you. P4: 30m wander up the route for 30m or so until good gear for a stance. P5: 30m continue up easy ground to a sloping ledge with a small boulder sat on it, with is a few meters under the over hangs. P6: 30m head up the wall to under the over hangs, where there are good gear placements & holds, tackle the over hangs on there right on good holds but not as good feet for a short time, then move back left over the over hangs, move up the lovely slab to a stance at the base of the chimney & a good sized spike/boulder to the left. P7: 35m up the chimney, then I couple of meters on its outer left wall then step across to its right side to the small hanging slab & right around the boulder, up the small groove behind the boulder to a large perched block, stay on the outside of the block moving left around it to a stance agains the wall. P8: 45m move up the wall above the block & keep trending right to the blunt arête & some great exposure from the huge gully to the right, to a small ledge under some small overhangs, either take a stance here on the left, or continue to the top via a shallow groove in the wall directly left on the small roof/overhang. |
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| C Rettiw | 29 Feb, 2024 |
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βeta: Great route, but all in the last 5 pitches. Started round to the left, up a nice slab, VS 4b, quite bold. Then 3 pitches of scrambling up the ridge, with all the pitches significantly shorter than the SB guidebook suggested, esp. 60m p.4 which is actually closer to 30m. P.5 good HS 4a up right of cactus gully to a scoop, then left to a ledge, then up and right again to ascend vague rib on good holds. p.6. Well protected through the overhang, on good jams. HVS 5a in Cumbria, VS 5a in the Peak and HS 4c in tight Yorkshire. Slab above is only 4a. p.7 Chimney: escape it almost immediately and climb left wall to rejoin chimney in scoop, then take left at junction to finish via steepish gap through blocks. HS 4a. p.8 ramp is S 4a: careful of cactuses! p.9 and 10 can be run together into a mega pitch that is only 35 to 40m long, not the 60m claimed in SB guidebook. Start up the wall above the big boulder and then move out right. Some gear around the arete. At the break/ledge, move left to a weakness and climb steeply up suspect and dirty rock, with many cacti. Really good, felt HVS 4c, due to questy nature, but an experienced VS leader would be fine. You'll do well not to leave your bag at the base, as it's a bit of pain having to head back up to retrieve it, especially if dark. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route, but all in the last 5 pitches. Started round to the left, up a nice slab, VS 4b, quite bold. Then 3 pitches of scrambling up the ridge, with all the pitches significantly shorter than the SB guidebook suggested, esp. 60m p.4 which is actually closer to 30m. P.5 good HS 4a up right of cactus gully to a scoop, then left to a ledge, then up and right again to ascend vague rib on good holds. p.6. Well protected through the overhang, on good jams. HVS 5a in Cumbria, VS 5a in the Peak and HS 4c in tight Yorkshire. Slab above is only 4a. p.7 Chimney: escape it almost immediately and climb left wall to rejoin chimney in scoop, then take left at junction to finish via steepish gap through blocks. HS 4a. p.8 ramp is S 4a: careful of cactuses! p.9 and 10 can be run together into a mega pitch that is only 35 to 40m long, not the 60m claimed in SB guidebook. Start up the wall above the big boulder and then move out right. Some gear around the arete. At the break/ledge, move left to a weakness and climb steeply up suspect and dirty rock, with many cacti. Really good, felt HVS 4c, due to questy nature, but an experienced VS leader would be fine. You'll do well not to leave your bag at the base, as it's a bit of pain having to head back up to retrieve it, especially if dark. |
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| Apredicamentofpangolins | 27 Feb, 2024 |
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βeta: Beware, there's a big loose block at the perched block belay point at the start of the final pitch (it may still have a green wallnut in the crack to the right of it). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Beware, there's a big loose block at the perched block belay point at the start of the final pitch (it may still have a green wallnut in the crack to the right of it). |
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| Guy Baker | 30 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: There is a massive loose block near the belay by the 'perched block' - tempting to place gear, but avoid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a massive loose block near the belay by the 'perched block' - tempting to place gear, but avoid. |
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Route of Interest
The Orient Express
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Tramline Slabs)