500m, 15 pitches.
A sustained climb which is well bolted at mostly grade 5/5+ with one pitch of A0 or climb it at 6a+. The setting and views are spectacular. Walk in from pre du madame Carle is about 50mins. Allow 5 to 6 hours for climb and 2 hours for abseil descent. Beware of some loose blocks on decent
Baron,Ghesquiers,Cambon 2002.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paul Sagar | 16 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The Plaisir guidebook is quite misleading - pitch grades are wrong (very sandbaggy!) and makes it hard to find the abseil at the top. Use the Oisans east guide, which is much more accurate. Actual pitch grades are: 4b, 5c, 5c, 5c, 200m walk, 6a, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5c+, 4c, long winding walk with one bolt graded 3ish, 5c, 5c [to a very uncomfortable hanging stance], A0/6a+, 5b [to a single bolt belay], 3b to the top [no bolts, best to move together and protect with slings]. Abseil is at the top of Soleil Glacial which is NOT at the top of the ridge proper, but at the top of the shoulder just below. A couple of bolts lead down to it but it can be a little tricky to spot. Abseils are mostly straightforward but the second one trends slightly left, not right as the topos imply. A committing climb not to be underestimated, especially if it is hot. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The Plaisir guidebook is quite misleading - pitch grades are wrong (very sandbaggy!) and makes it hard to find the abseil at the top. Use the Oisans east guide, which is much more accurate. Actual pitch grades are: 4b, 5c, 5c, 5c, 200m walk, 6a, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5c+, 4c, long winding walk with one bolt graded 3ish, 5c, 5c [to a very uncomfortable hanging stance], A0/6a+, 5b [to a single bolt belay], 3b to the top [no bolts, best to move together and protect with slings]. Abseil is at the top of Soleil Glacial which is NOT at the top of the ridge proper, but at the top of the shoulder just below. A couple of bolts lead down to it but it can be a little tricky to spot. Abseils are mostly straightforward but the second one trends slightly left, not right as the topos imply. A committing climb not to be underestimated, especially if it is hot. |
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| Stone Muppet | 25 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Should add to tomlake's feedback that the soleil glacial ab is before the col which is before the summit proper. Plaisir topo recommends using this but doesn't show the summit proper which is where the confusion arises as you're thinking the topo shows the abseil being near the top but there's clearly a massive lump of rock above you still. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Should add to tomlake's feedback that the soleil glacial ab is before the col which is before the summit proper. Plaisir topo recommends using this but doesn't show the summit proper which is where the confusion arises as you're thinking the topo shows the abseil being near the top but there's clearly a massive lump of rock above you still. |
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| tomlake | 15 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn’t use any nuts and could probably leave cams behind as well, just used them for a belay at the top. Abseil descent described in Plaisir Select guide not easy to find. Alternatively head along the ridge from the end of the route Towards the summit proper. The anchor at the top of Soleil Glacial is easy to find and a full 60m ab will take you to the next. Follow the bolts down to the ledge and walk back to the top of P4, three abs from there will get you to the ground. Rock quality generally very good but there are some loose blocks! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Didn’t use any nuts and could probably leave cams behind as well, just used them for a belay at the top. Abseil descent described in Plaisir Select guide not easy to find. Alternatively head along the ridge from the end of the route Towards the summit proper. The anchor at the top of Soleil Glacial is easy to find and a full 60m ab will take you to the next. Follow the bolts down to the ledge and walk back to the top of P4, three abs from there will get you to the ground. Rock quality generally very good but there are some loose blocks! |
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Route of Interest
Pilier Candau
Grade: D ***
(Le Rateau)