Restricted Access
Coast road from Kilcar in Donegal. From parking area follow track for one mile, then bear left down to the crag.
The landowner requires advance notification of access, along with proof of insurance indemnity for each member of the party. This information must be provided by email in accordance with the guidance issued by the Information Centre.
Start: This route takes the left edge of Sail Rock. The original line started up a crack to the right of the arete to reach the basalt dyke about 6m from the edge.
28m From the lowest point of the basin follow the edge to a belay level with the basalt dyke.
18m Climb open grooves on the left of the edge to another platform.
35m Climb for 10m to a stance and continue up a crack to the top or break out right and finish on solid weathered rock to the top of the wall.
D Scott, R Gillies Apr/1967.
Ticklists
Ireland 2 Star VS , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes , good ol' Irish multi pitches to do while here
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CaptainJimbad | 1 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Quality route with fantastic exposure. We took the scramble down to the base, right of the crag over the sea arch. About 15m from the bottom of the scramble it gets very treacherous, we built an anchor and abseiled to the bottom, however after doing this realised it's not quite as hard as it looks, so came back up to dismantle the anchor, retrieve gear and scramble down. Still pretty hairy though, this is by far the most dangerous part of the climb. Also the guidebook said that the crag is accessible at any tide, but even close to low tide there were BIG waves sweeping over the final part of the scramble, and we had to be careful to dodge them and not get swept away. Awesome route and location but quite intense and care should be taken. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Quality route with fantastic exposure. We took the scramble down to the base, right of the crag over the sea arch. About 15m from the bottom of the scramble it gets very treacherous, we built an anchor and abseiled to the bottom, however after doing this realised it's not quite as hard as it looks, so came back up to dismantle the anchor, retrieve gear and scramble down. Still pretty hairy though, this is by far the most dangerous part of the climb. Also the guidebook said that the crag is accessible at any tide, but even close to low tide there were BIG waves sweeping over the final part of the scramble, and we had to be careful to dodge them and not get swept away. Awesome route and location but quite intense and care should be taken. |
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| MichealMurphy | 4 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock. Worth belaying off to the side | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Loose rock. Worth belaying off to the side |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Sail Rock
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Tór Mór Ridge
Grade: VS 4a ***
(Tory Island)