Altitude 235m a.s.l
Mike Owen, Action Discrete, Secteur Le Discret (St Cezaire), Alpes Maritimes, France. © Nicolas Lesage
The crags offer some of the best tufa climbing in the south of France. It is posible to climb all year, although it can be humid in December and January, due to the close proximity of the river.
All these cliffs, generally called Saint-Cézaire, are located in the bottom of the valley approximately 5km between Saint-Cézaire and Mons along the D105.
The first 3 are located approximately 200m before the bridge crossing the river Siagne, where a small roads branches to the right underneath some very big cliffs: Secteur EDF (you need to be discreet here, but climbing is tolerated) is just after the metal gate (200m from the road junction) barring access by car (park just before the gate on the left); Kalymnos is found by following the road on foot from the EDF parking until, just after the big house, a path on the right ascends upwards, turn left immediately after the 2nd bend (level with the roof of the house) and traverse northwards for approx 100 - 200m then up to the cliff, via one in-situ handline.
The other 3 cliffs are located either side of the river Siagnole by following a path on the left bank for 500m and either traversing the river (for the south facing secteur) or by ascending the hillside and a short via ferrata. Park your car just after the bridge over the Siagne at the road junction. Parking can get busy here at weekends in summers due to family picknics.
Secteur Jean Marc Genevois is above the car park for Secteur EDF: a path leads up steeply opposite the left end of the parking, then traverses right under a cliff to eventually reach a chain, then up and back left passing another chain and eventually arriving at the right side of the cliff after about 10 mins.
Le Discret is about a 30 minute walk and quite complicated to get to without help from a local. See the map to locate parking (please don't block the road). From the barrier take the uphill fork, then skirt left below the hydro-electric station over a metal bridge and up the hill to the canal. Follow the path besides the wall for 1km or so (the path goes up and down several times) to arrive at a steep uphill section. After a couple of minutes the path goes back down hill. Take the worn (but easy to miss) path that doubles back on the left. Follow this steeply down hill, past lots of hand lines to arrive at the crag. The crag is in the shade until around 2pm, so is best in spring and autumn.
All the bolts have been removed from Le Roi du 7. This sector is now banned due to rare bats.
Please don't upset the locals by blocking the road with your gear, rope bag, etc whilst at sector EDF. Climbing is tolerated, but it wouldn't take much to jeopardise it.
The valley gets very busy in summer, so be very considerate where you park.
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