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Climbs 135
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 567m a.s.l
Faces S

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Multi-pitch, December, T shirts. © Enty

Crag features

Dominating the skyline above Buis-les-Baronnies, Saint Julien is an enormous fin of rock that simply begs to be climbed. The routes are, with a few exceptions, brilliant, often taking strong natural lines in two or more pitches, to reach the ridge. Saint Julien is particularly appealing to climbers operating between 5 and 6b, though there are a number of excellent harder routes that pick their way up to smooth vertical faces.

The cliff is south-facing, and gets plenty of sun. On windy days being on the top of the cliff can feel like you're in the middle of a hurricane, even though the base may be quite sheltered.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from Buis-les Baronnies. At the north end of the town, cross the green bridge over the river and turn left, then take the first right past the campground and swimming pool. Follow the road towards the crag, the north face of which is in plain view. First there is a large parking on the left, mainly for walkers and via feratta-ists, followed by a small parking area on the right (identified by a small cable bridge) that gives access to via ferattas on both sides of the road. Further on is a new large parking area on both sides of the road just before a sharp right turn. This one can be identified by a dry toilet building on the right and a large FFME notice board at the start of the path, on the left. From here follow the climbers path which has now been re-routed somewhat, but is very defined in its lower part by a ferocious electric fence. Where it meets a steep wide incline, take the narrow path on the left, often marked by a cairn. This path arrives at the crag at the bottom of Gastronome and then continues along the whole of the foot of the crag. The steep monotonous incline should be avoided as it is closed off by the electric fence some way above this junction/cairn.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Le rocher de saint-julien (2008)

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Climbs at this crag

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