UKC

Climbs 496
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
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Unknown French gadger on Thierry Golé - 7C © Enty

Crag features

While still a 'work in progress', Saint Léger is undoubtedly already up there with the other great masterpieces of French sport climbing. There's no hiding the fact that this is a hard crag, but there are enough gems in the mid 6s to justify a visit if you're not quite up to the 7s and 8s.

The main, largely south-facing crags get plenty of sun, through shade can be found around the East Face. The North Face gets the shade, welcome in the summer months, but in the winter, you'll freeze.

Approach notes

Saint Léger lies just off the D40 that runs east from Mollans-sur-Ouvèze. The turning off the D40 lies between the 9km and 10km marker stones, and when travelling from Mollans, is indicated by a sign for 'La Bergerie 1km'. Park outside La Bergerie at a small parking area - if this is full, park considerately near by as access is delicate. DO NOT CAMP HERE. There is a lovely (and popular) swimming spot by the bridge.

There are two approach paths:

1) Above the parking area, the GR footpath (marked in red and white) leads up the hill around La Bergerie, keep your eyes open for the left turn and follow it back down to the river. 

2) A more direct and less strenuous route is to follow the river itself which is fine in hot weather when you can paddle, but more awkward in cooler weather or when the level is up. Do not go anywhere near the grounds of La Bergerie since this is likely to cause access problems.

Access Advice

The 2022 guidebook states that road leading to La Bergerie and the parking at the end of it should not be used. It describes alternate approaches from laybys on the main road.

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