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Climbs 143
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 430m a.s.l
Faces all

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Salem © Tom Phillips

Crag features

Salem is a friendly crag with plenty of easily accessible and well-bolted climbing, and there is always sun and shade to choose from. The rock is generally good with water-washed limestone, covered in small solution pockets, on the right-hand side, and more featured walls on the left-hand side. The gear and lower-offs are all solid and well-positioned though it has to be admitted that the over-bolting actually detracts from the climbing in a couple of sectors.

Many visitors here make the mistake of just climbing on the two sectors near the parking - Frigorific and Estival. Both these offer the odd good route, especially in the easier grades, however they are not the best climbing here and you will get much more from the crag if you venture up onto the higher side walls and explore the place a bit. 

Bolts have a habit of disappearing from the easier routes on Sectors Frigorific and Estival. Some people may find a small rack of wires useful just in case.

The crags are laid out in a 'V' shape running into a deeply incised valley that is sheltered from the wind. Extremes of temperature may be encountered as the crags on the right-hand side of the valley face northwest and only get late afternoon sun, whilst the crags opposite face south and bask in the sun until late afternoon.

 

**A majority of the bolts on the lower graded routes at Sector Estival are home made. The hangers, bolts and top anchors are not of the approved, load tested type. Great care and consideration should be used if climbing these, although I would advise against it after seeing one of the anchors carabiner wasn’t even a climbing type. 

Approach notes

From the Calp/Benidorm area the best approach is via Gandía. Follow the approach to Gandía until the first turn off on the ring road signed to 'Albahida' (alternatively use the tricky but quicker method via Oliva and La Font indicated on the map on page 379). After 20km turn off towards 'Castellon de Rugat' and drive round Castellon de Rugat, then turn right following the 'Salem' signs. After 2.3km, just before you enter Salem, turn left (signed 'Muro de Alcoi'). Follow a winding road until you see a large green factory (Font Salem water-bottling plant) on the right. The road swings around over a small bridge and you will see Sector Frigorífico just above the road. Park on the dirt track in front of a small substation. You can also drive through Castellón de Rugat and turn right onto the CV-705 but this is harder to follow, however it is useful for your return journey.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Out of print:
Topo in 2013 rockfax doesnt fit with reality on sector frigorifico. Numbers at the right hand end are one out.
Mick r - 01/Mar/17
Went here last sunday. There were a few goats in sector Sol i bon temps. Nothing out of the ordinary. But among them there was also a big (100+ kg) male goat. He had big horns and was showing some territorial behaviour, like rubbing against the ews and bushes, peeing everywhere, etc. We felt somewhat intimidated and left the crag. We were wondering why there was nobody there on a sunday with good weather. Maybe this was the reason? Anybody else had this experience at Salem?
Ernie - 11/Jan/17
I'd like to claim some routes from this crag for my ticklist, but I'm not really sure what I climbed! Massively overbolted in places.
mwh - 06/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

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