Climbs 82
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 711m a.s.l
Faces all

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Rik on Mata-Hari © Charlie M

Crag features

Salinas is a pleasant crag in a peaceful situation. The routes are well-equipped and have a good spread of grades. It is worth noting that many of the harder routes are a bit hacked about and there is a seasonal bird-ban which can interfere with your plans if you are here in the spring. Despite this, the routes are mostly sustained and superb, following steep pockets and thin vertical walls. It shouldn't just be considered a crag for the hard climber as there is a decent selection of fine easier climbs on Sector Picara Viborita and on the edges of the higher sectors. The locals know the cliff as Alto Don Pedro after the hill behind it.

The crag is basically a ridge with routes on both faces. The crag faces east making it a good morning venue in the winter and a useful shady afternoon retreat in the summer. It is not too exposed and can be considered an all year round crag except perhaps on the coldest of days, or when it is windy.

Approach notes

The crag is situated near the town of the same name which is 8km west of Sax and is best approached from there. Drive from Alicante towards Madrid on the A31 (a free dual carriageway). Turn off at Sax and drive into the town. At the first roundabout turn left, signed 'Salinas'. Follow this for about 8km to the small village of Salinas and drive straight through it. After a roundabout leave the town towards 'Monovar' and continue for 1.5km and turn right (signed 'Finca Castillejos'). At this point the ridge of the crag can be seen ahead on the left. Ignore the first dirt track on the left and on the next right-hand bend continue straight onto a wide dirt track. Turn left off this onto another dirt track and follow it towards the crag past two sets of buildings. Keep left at the first branch and right at the second. Park at a clearing on the right or press on to a higher parking area - steep and often hard going. Continue walking up the track to find a path on a bend. This leads straight to Sector Picara Viborita. It is also possible to park just past the second building and be faced with a slightly longer walk.

No Access Issues


There have been restrictions in the past with no climbing between 1st March and 1st July because of nesting birds. Check for signs on the approach to the cliff, which are only posted if the birds are nesting. This restriction has been known to vary from year to year, sometimes starting in February and some years not being posted at all.

Beware of the approach description given in Rockfax - it appears to be out of date. There is a roundabout as you leave the town - bear leftish. The turn off from the main road is signposted 'Los Fontaros'. Follow the description past the houses, but at the fork (100yds past the houses bear right - not left. Or leave you car there - the oil trail on the track indicates that someone did some damage to their undercarriage !
Chris the Tall - 07/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

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