UKC Logbook - 'The Black Wall Traverse'

Access Banned

Currently access to the quarry and radical road is banned for all activities. Additional signage has been added dissuading climbing.

A geological survey has been delayed by covid.

Please do not risk access to this popular climbing spot at this time.

Permission to climb is in theory granted by getting a free pass from the Historic Scotland Park Ranger Service, who hide in a wee glass fronted building behind Holyrood Palace. The requirement of the pass isn't heavily enforced, and because most climbers stick to bouldering in the South Quarry, reports of problems are rare.

Significant geotechnical rock scaling has recently taken place all along Salisbury crags. Be aware that some long standing "loose" sections may have been disturbed and previously easy access routes are now covered with dislodged rubble.

Starting from the high left-hand rail, traverse the black wall high finishing around the arête; very polished.

Ticklists

EUMC - Must do climbs , Boulder Scotland starred problems

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User	Date		Notes
redjerry	25 Dec, 2022	Show βeta βeta: A little bit of history. The traverse was traditionally done right to left, coming in low on the right arete. The big flat jug at the left end of the traverse wasn't there when Cubby first climbed this. Instead there was a wide, slippery pinch hold which you had to match on and which was really hard to use. This made the problem much harder than it is today.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A little bit of history. The traverse was traditionally done right to left, coming in low on the right arete. The big flat jug at the left end of the traverse wasn't there when Cubby first climbed this. Instead there was a wide, slippery pinch hold which you had to match on and which was really hard to use. This made the problem much harder than it is today.