UKC

Climbs 25
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 126m a.s.l
Faces E

View Stats

Big Dave nailing the Lip Traverse © Smudge03

Crag features

Brocton quarry is probably not worth traveling a great distance for, but it is a nice little training location for local climbers.  Landings are perfect, so you might want to leave the pad at home and combine a trip here with a ride or walk on Cannock Chase. 

Update 27/02/2012 - There has been a report that much of the overhang has broken away. I guess it was bound to happen eventually! Very little worthwhile climbing remains.

Update 07/03/2021 - After a decade of weathering, the overhang is now climbable again.  Please take care.

The location shown on the map is accurate and someone has added some crag photos showing where to go. Note that it is the old sandstone quarry and not the sand and gravel pit.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Climbed the lip traverse here today. Offered a nice challenge and I'm looking forward to heading back. I'd recommend taking some insect spray, and a bigger brush (for your shoes) as well as your smaller brush for holds etc. Ian Cornish has uploaded a Youtube video of this traverse... heres the link :) https://youtu.be/ZHvxgOsap2w
2-D MAN - 09/Oct/16
Went to this place recently, there seems to be a decent route across the lip, probably goes at about 6a+ / 6b now, maybe some other people can go climb it and suggest? I never got to climb there before the roof fell so cannot comment as a comparison. Still a bit crumbly higher up the roof.
Danstephens - 16/Sep/14
As liam said, track is overgrown with fern but that will soon die down. Although the overhang has fallen, there is still some of it there and I reckon it's still climbable. There is also a few nice traverse/corner climbs, even though the face and holds need a good clean out with a brush, although we shall do that next time. All in all, a nice little sesh spot for when you fancy a quick climb.
rhinobiker - 14/Aug/13
Went to the Crag today to check it out. The track to find it is quite overgrown but still accessible. Area looked nice and some of the routes looked good, needs a bit of a clean out though.
LiamC_Ski - 13/Aug/13
went to sams hidden craf earlier, to see what it was like! despite the overhang being gone, There is potential for little routes, quite a bit of moss on the rock at the minuet, but if that was given a brushing off and a bit of chalk added to some holds it would be perfectly ok to climb on!
joehodgkins - 13/Mar/13
Went there the other day and it took me ages to find it, mainly because the area that is known as 'Brocton Quarry' is another area. The best way to find Sam's Hidden Crag is by standing on the top of the hill with the sun dial on top, look west towards the road and it is in the wooded area in front of you, to the right of a large stone. As for the area itself, its a nice little training area for traversing and messing about; if you don't mind sharing you finger holds with spiders! I wouldn't come out of your way to come here, but it's a nice local spot.
oneocon - 29/May/12
Sorry i mean 'Chase Road'.
_MJC_ - 22/Mar/12
It is where it is pinpointed on the map so zoom in as far as possible. Avoid the actual signposted quarry that is down Camp Road.
_MJC_ - 22/Mar/12
this looks great and its on my door step, is it in the actual quarry? i have tried to find it but have been unsuccessful
danrubenis - 27/Feb/12
Not a bad little spot, for Brocton. Needs a bit of a clean as its a bit green but could be good if you dont mind bees. I might go back in winter when all the bees have died off! If anyone wants to head up there and clean it and get some traffic on it, i'll help. a. swinnerton@gmail.com (dont include the space)
Swin - 17/Oct/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer GrantB

Loading Notifications...