12m.
★ 31. SDTM 12m 20 5Þ
To ascend SDTM (straight down the middle) you will need to climb SUTM (straight up the middle).
SDTM is a work of art and a fine example of the genre. Lovingly prepared to provide the up and coming with a mix of emotions from joy through to despair as faith and fingers fade whilst contemplating the puzzling crux sequence. The climb has a genuine big wall feel, high above the valley with eagles and falcons soaring, gliding and hoping to feed their young with human carrion should a mistake be made. Work your way up to the shallow corner beneath the small rooflet, a bolt at this point will provide scant reassurance as the ledge above is gained. Calm the nerves as a second bolt is clipped and quell the fear as you leave the security of the ledge for the unknown. Bolt 3 will have you quaking in your TC Pro’s as the crux sequence commences. Search for the inevitable jug to guide upwards progression – you won’t find it, there is none in existence. Levitate, gravitate but don’t hesitate on the path to bolt 4. Relax at your peril, it’ a bit early yet, the headwall will surprise and those tiring fingers begin to unfold. Bolt 5 will save a ground fall – just. The summit is near. Centimetres out from your last bolt a launch for the greasy sloper on top is marginal, hope and prayers are your friends here. Clip the anchors quickly and slump – SDTM is complete but not conquered. The body will take time to recover, the mind may never!
To ascend SDTM (straight down the middle) you will need to climb SUTM (straight up the middle).
SDTM is a work of art and a fine example of the genre. Lovingly prepared to provide the up and coming with a mix of emotions from joy through to despair as faith and fingers fade whilst contemplating the puzzling crux sequence. The climb has a genuine big wall feel, high above the valley with eagles and falcons soaring, gliding and hoping to feed their young with human carrion should a mistake be made. Work your way up to the shallow corner beneath the small rooflet, a bolt at this point will provide scant reassurance as the ledge above is gained. Calm the nerves as a second bolt is clipped and quell the fear as you leave the security of the ledge for the unknown. Bolt 3 will have you quaking in your TC Pro’s as the crux sequence commences. Search for the inevitable jug to guide upwards progression – you won’t find it, there is none in existence. Levitate, gravitate but don’t hesitate on the path to bolt 4. Relax at your peril, it’ a bit early yet, the headwall will surprise and those tiring fingers begin to unfold. Bolt 5 will save a ground fall – just. The summit is near. Centimetres out from your last bolt a launch for the greasy sloper on top is marginal, hope and prayers are your friends here. Clip the anchors quickly and slump – SDTM is complete but not conquered. The body will take time to recover, the mind may never!
Andrew Davies, Neale Smith, Bob Bull 05/Nov/2020.
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Route of Interest
Recidivist
Grade: 20 ***
(Sand River)