UKC

Restricted Access

Access for climbing has been banned here in the past. However, following recent negotiations with Mendip Outdoor Pursuits, (the company who lease the quarry), climbing access is now allowed on the following basis:

  • Climbers must obtain a key by visiting the MOP offices situated at the ski slope (very close to the quarry): Lyncombe Drive, Churchill, North Somerset, BS25 5PQ. Phone 01934 834 877 and is open 9am-8pm weekdays and 9am-6pm weekends. The key must be returned once you finish climbing. Should the office be closed please post the key through the letterbox.
  • MOP will fund a supply of keys but if too many are not returned or lost this could jeopardize the agreement.
  • Climbers must not hinder MOP’s commercial activities within the quarry.
  • MOP reserve the right to remove loose rock and place fixed equipment as required by their commercial operations.
  • Commercial organisations must discuss access with MOP prior to visiting the quarry.

Although it is relatively easy to enter the quarry without a key it is essential that anyone visiting the quarry adhere to the agreement outlined above.

 

UPDATE 30/04/2025: Updated AccessThere is no official permission to climb in the lower lift. Mendip activity Centre owns the upper lift and have developed many areas for group instruction. This means that the quarry can become very busy with their customers at times, for safeguarding reasons, they prefer recreational climbers not to visit. During quiet times they allow recreational climbing but the following conditions must be adhered to:1. No climbing on The Red Slab, The Grey Slab, The Ochre Slab and in the New Red Quarry.2. Do not use or tamper with any of Mendip Activity Centre’s fixed gear.3. Although it can be easy to enter the quarry by the path next to the lime kilns; it is requested that climbers contactMendip Activity Centre ([email protected]) first so they know who is in the quarry and you’re not asked toleave.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines have been reported here, usually nesting opposite the slab routes - please take care during the spring not to disturb them.

Immaculate, thin slab climbing in-between 'eco line' and 'polished off'. The hardest yet safest route in the quarry, which clips the first two bolts and peg of eco line, and the single bolt on polished off. Its easy to stay on route providing you stay either side of the neighbouring climbs. Hard on the fingers and toes.

Rob Stanfield 30/Aug/2013.

Ticklists

Stanner's Mendip Mischief Ultimate Experience Ticklist of Glory

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Guidebooks for Sandford Quarry

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moving Target

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)

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