Rockfax Description
This excellent via ferrata is something of a hidden gem, tucked away in a neat little group of peaks located on the south side of the Val San Nicolò. Technically the route is very easy; the hardest part almost undoubtedly being the 1100m of ascent from the valley floor. The views are stunning and it can be confidently recommended for anyone looking for a long and engaging day off the beaten track. The wire starts shortly after the Bivouac Donato Zeni (2100m) and this can be used by those looking to do a longer trek or for those wanting to split the route across two days. The bivouac is only small so be aware of other parties looking to use the facility.
Approach - The via ferrata is accessed via Pozza di Fassa, a well-supplied town in the Val di Fassa. Once in Pozza, follow the signed road in the direction of the 'Val San Nicolò' to the east. After following the road for 5-10 minutes you will reach the small chapel of Malga Crocifisso just before a T-junction. Parking is available near the chapel.
Alternatively it is possible to park on the outskirts of Pozza near the Vidor camping facility. From there you can walk uphill and join path 615 as it swings north opposite Rifugio Soldanella.
From the chapel, head downhill slightly back towards Pozza until path 615B is signed off on the left. The path ascends steeply through the trees until after 30 minutes or so you join up with path 615 proper coming up from Rifugio Soldanella (alternative but lower starting point). Continue on path 615 following signs for 'Bivouac Donato Zeni'. After a time you will come to a scrambling section protected by a loose wire shortly after crossing the river bed. Another steep 10-15 minutes past this leads you to the Bivouac Donato Zeni itself. From the bivouac, turn right (looking uphill), heading west on path 617. The signs are currently in need of replacing but 'Ferrata' can be made out. The start of the wire is reached 5 minutes out from the bivouac.
VF - The ferrata ascends on fairly easy but steep ground, alternating between good cable and zig-zagging paths. The way is for the most part fairly obvious and after 40 minutes you will reach the ridge-line proper. Here there is an optional ascent to Sasso Dodici (marked as 'Sas da le Duodesh' on the Tabacco maps) to the north. The extra 10 minutes it takes to reach the peak are well worth it for the magnificent views back down into the Val di Fassa. The ferrata then continues along the ridge to the south, alternating cable with unprotected sections, until you get to the summit of Sas Aut. From here there is a steep but possible escape route down 630 to the west. To continue, keep heading south on path 630 which begins to descend following signs for 'Forcella Vallacia'. Some exposed but well protected down-climbing marks the end of the difficulties. Continue heading for the optional (but again well worth it) summit of Punta Vallacia. From the summit, retrace your steps a short distance and continue southwards hugging the rock walls until the path swings sharply left at Forcella de la Costela.
Descent - From Forcella de la Costela, you have two options.
You can either continue descending down path 615 to the north passing through Forcella Vallacia. Once through the forcella, Bivouac Donato Zeni is clearly visible again. Follow the path down to the bivouac and return via the way you came.
Alternatively for a longer (but arguably more scenic) descent you can take path 624 shortly after Forcella de la Costela. This takes you east, passing Rifugio Vallacia, and drops you down into the Monzoni-Munciogn bowl. Here you join path 603 which turns north taking you to Rifugio Monzoni. From the rifugio an easy walk (or bus ride) down the road leads you back to the Val San Nicolò and the chapel © Rockfax


User Date Notes
AndrewP 29 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A magnificent VF, but part of a very long walking day.
Show beta
βeta: A magnificent VF, but part of a very long walking day.

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