Altitude 2125m a.s.l
Andy Griffiths at Sas Dlacia © wildeybeast
A large, steep and imposing sports crag. Grades range from F5a to F8a+ with upper 6's and low 7's predominating. The bolts are plentiful and currently in good condition. The pitches are long (often 30m) so make sure a suitable rope length is used. There are several multipitch routes, the majority of which are 3 pitches in length. A clipstick may be useful as the initial bolt can be some distance above the ground on some routes
This sports crag may be reached by driving to the lower section of the Valparola Pass. Drive towards the plain of Armentarola and the Rio Sare bridge. Access can then be gained by driving up a rough track running parallel to the river. Part at the head of the access track, the main face can then be seen on the right. Continue on foot for some 15 minutes up gently rising ground past a picnic area.
|Sector F doesn't add up in the Rockfax guide or the Dolomites Sport Climbing guide. L-R after the Via Dei Veci crack-line, there is route 5 KL 6a+ but route 6 La Mosna does not exist. There is nothing on that section with bolts bar for 7 Ore di volo 8 Ultimo Tango and 9 Slumm. Route 10 follows old bolts on the arete and is fine. The funny thing is with the missing line 6 La Mosna is the bolts appear to be there at the top. We also tried all the starts and nothing is easier than 6c except 5 KL 6a+.
Steve Perry - 16/Aug/15
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