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Altitude 230m a.s.l
The Slab (VS) at Lower Scout Crag (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax). © Alan James
Lower Scout Crag - a small rather grubby crag, overused by groups so very shiny.
Middle Scout Crag - another small crag, but very steep. E-grades only.
Upper Scout Crag - the largest and arguably the best crag of the three with a number of fair to good routes in the easier grades, mostly with a couple of pitches each.
Although the easier routes have long been recommended to novices, it is worth pointing out that protection on many of the routes is sparse or hard to find or both. A good rack of cams will ease the situation especially with the imaginative use of gas bubble pockets on the upper crag.
There seem to be no access problems, though the farmer is anxious about his lambs in springtime and there may be a group use ban on Lower Scout in the lambing season(mid March to end of April).
Park in one of the car parks in the vicinity of New Dungeon Gill Hotel and walk east along the road for 200m beyond the beck whence a stile leads into a field containing a small barn. The crags lie 5 - 10 minutes up the hillside from here. Parking on the road below the crag may attract the attention of the boys in blue.
|The last 4 routes on Middle Scout are beyond poor. what are they even doing in the guidebook. Consign them to the bin!|
Ian Jones -
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