Climbs 39
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 230m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Slab (VS) at Lower Scout Crag (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax). © Alan James

Crag features

Lower Scout Crag - a small rather grubby crag, overused by groups so very shiny.

Middle Scout Crag - another small crag, but very steep. E-grades only.

Upper Scout Crag - the largest and arguably the best crag of the three with a number of fair to good routes in the easier grades, mostly with a couple of pitches each.

Although the easier routes have long been recommended to novices, it is worth pointing out that protection on many of the routes is sparse or hard to find or both. A good rack of cams will ease the situation especially with the imaginative use of gas bubble pockets on the upper crag.

Approach notes

There seem to be no access problems, though the farmer is anxious about his lambs in springtime and there may be a group use ban on Lower Scout in the lambing season(mid March to end of April).

Park in one of the car parks in the vicinity of New Dungeon Gill Hotel and walk east along the road for 200m beyond the beck whence a stile leads into a field containing a small barn. The crags lie 5 - 10 minutes up the hillside from here. Parking on the road below the crag may attract the attention of the boys in blue.

No Access Issues

The crag itself is located on CRoW Open Access land and climbers have a legal right to be there, however the approach path is not Open Access and is a permissive route. The tennant farmer is happy for individuals to use the path but does not like groups using it.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Please be considerate during lambing time (1st April - 31st May) - dogs should be kept on a lead year round but this is even more important during lambing.

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