Climbs 192
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Access Advice

OCTOBER 2023. A number of culverts have become blocked causing seepage down the line of the approach path. Individuals have been removing stones from the dry stone wall to create “stepping stones” up the path. This is putting at risk the good relations with the farmer and the permissive access. Arrangements are in hand to remedy the drainage issues but in the meantime there must not be any further removal of stones from the walls.


With convenient access and quality climbing, Scugdale is understandably a very popular venue. The route heights are such that many climbers solo while others prefer the security of a rope. 

Scots Crag is the first encountered from the parking beneath the crags. It is continuous and easily navigated from below. Ingenuity is required in arranging belays for some of the routes. Its popuarity has resulted in wear on the soft sandstone which should be treat with care when damp.

Barker's is across a stile and to the right. It is far less frequented and consequently less worn. It is less continuous than Scots and more challenging to navigate as the butresses are best accessed from above and not always obvious.

Stoney Wickes is a compact venue further right. It is not as high as the other Scugdale crags but provides some excellent bouldering. 

Parking appears to be an issue currently, the last two visits have seen the small parking bay full due to drivers parking length ways in the purpose built bay. Doing this only allows two cars to be parked, thus causing everyone else to park randomly up the lane. By parking ‘end on’ the bay can take 4 cars and then alliviate the random parking. Speaking to the local families, this is what updating the parking bay was for. Please park with a thought to others.
Zoomer - 02/May/23
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

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