|Popped up today after years of not visiting. Had my kids with me and wanted to avoid people due to the Covid-19 situation.
The rock is generally excellent as are the landings (a little slopey). The grades are all over the place however, the old Climbing in NE England has them as trad (before the bouldering revolution) as does UKC....bottom line, they aren’t trad routes. However the NY Moors and E Coast Bouldering guidebook has them graded as ‘Font’, correct IMHO but the grades given bare little relation to the actual problems. My guess is that they simply equated the old grades across to Font grades with no checking. An example being ‘Pick Pocket’, if you follow the topo and avoid the crack (as per the description) then the problem is about F4...not F2.
None of the problems are outrageously hard but many are under graded, take the guidebook grade with a healthy pinch of salt.|
Zoomer - 29/May/20
|Lovely little location to play around. The guide is only of nominal help as the routes are all of a similar grade and all close to each other. You can try different eliminates and variations.|
Rampikino - 07/Apr/08
|A nice place to spend an hour or two soloing if you are short of a partner. Rarely higher than 3m and good landings. The rock is harder and rougher than the rest of Scugdale to the point that it almost feels like grit. Best problems are Sepulchre, Sobersides and Y-Crack.|
waps100 - 14/Jan/07
|Start on the left climb every line to end of the crag. Some good problems. No guide needed.|
IanJackson - 14/Dec/06