UKC

68m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The prominent arete offers one of Sella's best known climbs. The grades suggested for the pitches seem to vary. The start (the crux) is extremely polished, the rest less so. A good intro to multi-pitch climbing.
1) 5, 16m. Hard moves over a bulge, then trend left to ledges.
2) 4+, 20m. Continue to another stance.
3) 5 (VS), 20m. Follow a small groove to a tricky bulge (3 bolts). Pull over this then use the lower-off on the left or continue to the top using a few easy-to-place wires.
Descent - Make two abseils down the line. Alternatively, walk right along the ridge to reach the Ojo de Odra cave from behind © Rockfax

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
JimOakleyAdventures 6 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A clip stick aids the polish potential fall for the first two bolts Did two pitches on an 80m no problem
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A clip stick aids the polish potential fall for the first two bolts Did two pitches on an 80m no problem
Pete_Frost 26 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch has been polished to a fine sheen, then buffed to perfection. Top pitch is bolted to 2/3rds height. Used a couple of wires after that. All belays are bolted, but not on big ledges.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch has been polished to a fine sheen, then buffed to perfection. Top pitch is bolted to 2/3rds height. Used a couple of wires after that. All belays are bolted, but not on big ledges.
Olly P 29 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Three abseils from top chain on a single 60m rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Three abseils from top chain on a single 60m rope.
Daveyc86 19 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: You can actually walk / scramble off this route instead of abseiling off what is now a very old and rusted piton on the arch abseil route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You can actually walk / scramble off this route instead of abseiling off what is now a very old and rusted piton on the arch abseil route.
Graham at Aston 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is now very polished (shame) 5+. The second pitch has a bolt missing (big bold run out). And the top pitch is becoming pretty shiny. 5+. I certainly climbed other 5+ routes at Sella that were much easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is now very polished (shame) 5+. The second pitch has a bolt missing (big bold run out). And the top pitch is becoming pretty shiny. 5+. I certainly climbed other 5+ routes at Sella that were much easier.
Andy Emms 3 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Getting off the ground was the hardest move for me. I climbed the route to the chains at the top with two additional medium sized wires above the last bolt. It's 5+, 4, 4+ in my opinion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Getting off the ground was the hardest move for me. I climbed the route to the chains at the top with two additional medium sized wires above the last bolt. It's 5+, 4, 4+ in my opinion.
Gripped 5 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Getting off the ground and the top pitch felt the hardest to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Getting off the ground and the top pitch felt the hardest to me.
derekm 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Marion is a bit over-rated: it's polished, the moves are all a bit ordinary and only the situation makes it worthwhile. It does go right to the top so it's a 'proper' route! Guide grades about right, maybe 5 to get off the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Marion is a bit over-rated: it's polished, the moves are all a bit ordinary and only the situation makes it worthwhile. It does go right to the top so it's a 'proper' route! Guide grades about right, maybe 5 to get off the ground.
Ewan 17 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The top pitch isnt completly bolted, which is a shame. Take some wires and complete the route...its worth it. Just to add my two pennys worth, I reckon the grades go 5, 5, 5+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top pitch isnt completly bolted, which is a shame. Take some wires and complete the route...its worth it. Just to add my two pennys worth, I reckon the grades go 5, 5, 5+
Simon Caldwell 3 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Do yourself a favour, take some wires and do the last pitch in full, it's the best bit. And the descent via the cave is great fun too. My vote for grades is 5+, 4+/5, 5+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do yourself a favour, take some wires and do the last pitch in full, it's the best bit. And the descent via the cave is great fun too. My vote for grades is 5+, 4+/5, 5+

Logged Ascents

506 users have logged this
49 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Loading Notifications...