Rockfax Description
E5. The original climb on this wall follows the striking diagonal crack line, mostly on trad gear, with some bolted belays. There are some variations possible.
1) 6a+, 30m. Get onto the slab (loose), up this and cross onto the wall then traverse the ledge (thread). Continue right to the edge of a pillar and up this to a belay.
2) 6b, 25m. Climb the broken cracks direct. At the top, move left to a sloping ledge and bolt belay.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb the slab on the left to a spike, left to a groove and climb this until it is possible to move left and follow a fault to a bolt belay (same as Eye of the Wind).
4) 6b, 28m. Climb broken cracks on the left then follow the right-hand branch to a stance. The left one is Eye of the Wind).
5) 6c, 32m. Climb left to a steep corner and pull around the arete leftwards into a diagonal crack. Traverse this to a corner then move left and up to a hand traverse left across to a stance.
6) 6c, 50m. Follow the shallow depression to bolts above the roof. Pull over and traverse right into cracks. Follow these to the large ledge and traverse left to a bolt belay.
7) 7a, 50m. Climb the short crack left to a shallow depression (bolt). Ascend leftwards (bolt) to the arete and follow the crack (3 pegs) to ledges which lead to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The original climb on this wall follows the striking diagonal crack line, mostly on trad gear, with some bolted belays. There are some variations possible though only the modern and most popular line is described here.
1) 6a+, 25m. Get onto the slab (loose), up this and cross onto the wall then traverse the ledge (thread - E.o. t.W. belay). Continue right to the edge of a pillar and up this to a belay.
2) 6b, 27m. Climb the broken cracks direct. At the top, move left to a sloping ledge and bolt belay.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb the slab on the left to a spike, left to a groove and climb this until it is possible to move left and follow a fault to a bolt belay (same as Eye of the Wind).
4) 6b, 28m. Climb broken cracks on the left then follow the right-hand branch to a stance. The left one is Eye of the Wind).
5) 6c, 32m. Climb left to a steep corner and pull around the arete leftwards into a diagonal crack. Traverse this to a corner then move left and up to a hand traverse left across to a stance.
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