A pulse-enhancing and memorable pitch that features an extremely runout crux. Start just right of the arete below some thin cracks.Gain and climb the cracks to the first horizontal break. Move up the wall to a small flake from where a stiff rock-over gains a thin seam up to the left and the second break just above. Pull through the overhang and step right to finish up the steep prow on good holds. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The sheer slab between Samson Arete and Demo Route provides a fine bold E5 onsight rather than a miserable no-star top-rope exercise. Gear just above half-height will protect the crux with a swift belayer, so psyche up and go for it. Climb a tricky flared crack to the break, unload all your rack and stand up. Good scoops lead easily to an impasse a small flake, style leftwards via a great sequence to the thin crack and main ledge. Pull over as for DR, the finish right up the flakey nose.