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3rd session, and sent! Whoop! Top-roped clean, then got on lead. Bailed moving past the first bolt on the first lead attempt as didn't feel right. Hands in the wrong position and felt off balance; not focused enough. Pulled rope, had a quick rest, got straight back on and sent. Felt super focused and in control the whole way. :)
3rd session, and sent! Whoop! Top-roped clean, then got on lead. Bailed moving past the first bolt on the first lead attempt as didn't feel right. Hands in the wrong position and felt off balance; not focused enough. Pulled rope, had a quick rest, got straight back on and sent. Felt super focused and in control the whole way. :)
2nd session. Didn't feel as good this time. Conditions not great - too warm and humid. Got one clean toppy, but didn't really feel smooth/ in control on it. Needs more work!
2nd session. Didn't feel as good this time. Conditions not great - too warm and humid. Got one clean toppy, but didn't really feel smooth/ in control on it. Needs more work!
Got it today despite the warmth and having about 5 flappers on my left hand from bouldering the day before - silly me! Top-roped it and got it clean so felt ready to lead right away. Was an intense experience and was close to coming off at the crux, but held it together! On to more slate challenges - psycheeeed
Got it today despite the warmth and having about 5 flappers on my left hand from bouldering the day before - silly me! Top-roped it and got it clean so felt ready to lead right away. Was an intense experience and was close to coming off at the crux, but held it together! On to more slate challenges - psycheeeed
Toproped to work out the moves then 2x cleanly. Feel ready for the lead next time. Really good sustained climbing that just seems so improbable at the beginning
Toproped to work out the moves then 2x cleanly. Feel ready for the lead next time. Really good sustained climbing that just seems so improbable at the beginning
First session trying this route. Top-roped three times. Fell at the crux first attempt, but got it clean second go, and then clean past the crux again third time. Probably a bit more practice needed before getting on the lead - bolts are super-spaced, and the crux feels quite droppable...
First session trying this route. Top-roped three times. Fell at the crux first attempt, but got it clean second go, and then clean past the crux again third time. Probably a bit more practice needed before getting on the lead - bolts are super-spaced, and the crux feels quite droppable...
Alkis' project. Wanted to see if it was as hard as Espoloa nombrada, but actually the moves are much less technically hard. It's very strenuous, but I think it would go on lead. Maybe next time. Also I forgot my pinks in the car, so did everything in Pythons and I genuinely thought I'd pulled something in my left big toes. Don't forge the Anasazis next time, you moron.
with Alkis Tsapanidis
Alkis' project. Wanted to see if it was as hard as Espoloa nombrada, but actually the moves are much less technically hard. It's very strenuous, but I think it would go on lead. Maybe next time. Also I forgot my pinks in the car, so did everything in Pythons and I genuinely thought I'd pulled something in my left big toes. Don't forge the Anasazis next time, you moron.
Felt so desperate to me on the lower half, after almost every move I was amazed to still be on, but that is the nature of slab climbing!
Several high steps putting a lot of trust in my feet, and using my lanking abilities to the max. Psyched to have climbed it first go, despite such cold fingers! But will be a different game entirely on the lead...
with Kim TM
Felt so desperate to me on the lower half, after almost every move I was amazed to still be on, but that is the nature of slab climbing!
Several high steps putting a lot of trust in my feet, and using my lanking abilities to the max. Psyched to have climbed it first go, despite such cold fingers! But will be a different game entirely on the lead...
Got to the crag as it was getting dark. Warmed up climbing terribly on the bottom. Had a go when it was seriously dark and I think that made it easier to commit to shit feet. Got to the start of the hard bit in one push. Excited to work this one out.
Got to the crag as it was getting dark. Warmed up climbing terribly on the bottom. Had a go when it was seriously dark and I think that made it easier to commit to shit feet. Got to the start of the hard bit in one push. Excited to work this one out.
Second lead attempt. 7a+ style, extended the clips. Fell off at the crux on the first lead, doing it the way I had done it on the top rope. Much simpler beta worked much better.
Second lead attempt. 7a+ style, extended the clips. Fell off at the crux on the first lead, doing it the way I had done it on the top rope. Much simpler beta worked much better.
Not the best conditions (drizzle). One go on tr, then led clean first time on pre-placed draws. In and out of the quarries in an hour and half in time for tea (and orange drizzle cake).
Not the best conditions (drizzle). One go on tr, then led clean first time on pre-placed draws. In and out of the quarries in an hour and half in time for tea (and orange drizzle cake).
Felt absolutely desperate on reacquainting myself with its charms but accidentally did it in a oner on top rope so then had to lead it. Clipping bolts fairly harrowing, although this could be alleviated with some long slings. Bloody awesome, psyched to tick this off!
Felt absolutely desperate on reacquainting myself with its charms but accidentally did it in a oner on top rope so then had to lead it. Clipping bolts fairly harrowing, although this could be alleviated with some long slings. Bloody awesome, psyched to tick this off!
Ground-up (e5 style I guess). Made it to the last hard move before my feet hurt too much and I took a big whipper. Will come back for it when it isn't so bloody hot!
Ground-up (e5 style I guess). Made it to the last hard move before my feet hurt too much and I took a big whipper. Will come back for it when it isn't so bloody hot!
Couldn't walk away without at least trying to lead it.... put it on a rope and warmed up on it, felt desperate but did it clean again. Vicky talked some sense in to me and told me to try again, glad i did, i fell off twice but tweaked 2 sequences and suddenly it felt ok again, pulled the rope had a good rest and lead it. Cruised the crux and then nearly fell off try to do the 3rd clip had to have a word with myself.....(sorry to those listening) and again nearly came off in the groove. Simply brilliant route, just my style but punishing for us shorties ;-)
Couldn't walk away without at least trying to lead it.... put it on a rope and warmed up on it, felt desperate but did it clean again. Vicky talked some sense in to me and told me to try again, glad i did, i fell off twice but tweaked 2 sequences and suddenly it felt ok again, pulled the rope had a good rest and lead it. Cruised the crux and then nearly fell off try to do the 3rd clip had to have a word with myself.....(sorry to those listening) and again nearly came off in the groove. Simply brilliant route, just my style but punishing for us shorties ;-)
3rd red point attempt. Have never managed it clean on a top rope, fell off the easy traverse after the crux first go, pre crux the second go when my foot popped and got it clean third go!
Pre placed extended draws so 7a+, thin and sustained.
3rd red point attempt. Have never managed it clean on a top rope, fell off the easy traverse after the crux first go, pre crux the second go when my foot popped and got it clean third go!
Pre placed extended draws so 7a+, thin and sustained.
Had a got at this at the end of the day after Ian led P1 of the Quarryman and I had a go at top roping it. Thought it would feel easy by comparison but the crux still proved to be pretty hard! The first two bolts are cruelly positioned as you have to make a hard move or two to get to both of them and I reckon you'd deck going for the second bolt as you have to get right by it before you can clip. That certainly made it feel a lot more trad than sport! The moves to get to the bolts are 5c/6a. The 6b crux is thin and took me ages to commit to. Did the first move fine but fell off the second move twice. Got it third go. Steady from the jugs by the third bolt. Great route, should go back to lead it clean.
Had a got at this at the end of the day after Ian led P1 of the Quarryman and I had a go at top roping it. Thought it would feel easy by comparison but the crux still proved to be pretty hard! The first two bolts are cruelly positioned as you have to make a hard move or two to get to both of them and I reckon you'd deck going for the second bolt as you have to get right by it before you can clip. That certainly made it feel a lot more trad than sport! The moves to get to the bolts are 5c/6a. The 6b crux is thin and took me ages to commit to. Did the first move fine but fell off the second move twice. Got it third go. Steady from the jugs by the third bolt. Great route, should go back to lead it clean.
Far more do-able than I had ever imagined. Looks like it will be scary on lead, but will definately be back to get this one properly. Awesome climbing, super thin with some a properly awesome moves
Far more do-able than I had ever imagined. Looks like it will be scary on lead, but will definately be back to get this one properly. Awesome climbing, super thin with some a properly awesome moves
Came off the crux. Got back on and finished it. Nice climb. Couldn't remember the moves on lead for some reason and apparently I climbed it with a different sequence on lead from when on top rope...
Tried it again on lead again after but came off at the same place.
Came off the crux. Got back on and finished it. Nice climb. Couldn't remember the moves on lead for some reason and apparently I climbed it with a different sequence on lead from when on top rope...
Tried it again on lead again after but came off at the same place.
hard. couldn't stick the moves above the 2nd bolt, feet were killing me. abbed down afterwards to clean the draws and the holds/climbing above don't look too bad. definitely one to try again next time.
hard. couldn't stick the moves above the 2nd bolt, feet were killing me. abbed down afterwards to clean the draws and the holds/climbing above don't look too bad. definitely one to try again next time.
Niiice!! Had a couple of ground-up efforts on this in 09/10 but got no further than 1st bolt. Also had a play on the medium a few weeks back so inadvertantly did the top. Surprised myself everytime I moved past the next bolt and just lucked the 6b sequence before the 3rd bolt. Did the top weirdly as I couldn't remember owt so combining os-ing the crux, with having the draws in and the G-up efforts I'm taking a flash. Awesome, cheers to Al for the encouragement, hero. Unsure on 7a+ or E5 grade as this would be my first of either.
Niiice!! Had a couple of ground-up efforts on this in 09/10 but got no further than 1st bolt. Also had a play on the medium a few weeks back so inadvertantly did the top. Surprised myself everytime I moved past the next bolt and just lucked the 6b sequence before the 3rd bolt. Did the top weirdly as I couldn't remember owt so combining os-ing the crux, with having the draws in and the G-up efforts I'm taking a flash. Awesome, cheers to Al for the encouragement, hero. Unsure on 7a+ or E5 grade as this would be my first of either.
I think I like slate climbing. Onsighting this did not feel like a sport route! I would definitely feel short changed with f7a... you would hit the floor from at least 2 different places on route!
I think I like slate climbing. Onsighting this did not feel like a sport route! I would definitely feel short changed with f7a... you would hit the floor from at least 2 different places on route!
This is hard! To be expected at the grade I suppose. Foot popped just below the third bolt. THe crux move is desperately thin! It was nearly all over... Feet were pretty sore so I lowered off a convenient mallion rather than carry on for the dog. Awesome route, bring good stiff edges! This definitely felt harder than the 7a its given in the guidebook. 7a+ seems fair to me.
with Ben Harper
This is hard! To be expected at the grade I suppose. Foot popped just below the third bolt. THe crux move is desperately thin! It was nearly all over... Feet were pretty sore so I lowered off a convenient mallion rather than carry on for the dog. Awesome route, bring good stiff edges! This definitely felt harder than the 7a its given in the guidebook. 7a+ seems fair to me.
Got wrong footed on the crux and fell off cause i'm shit. It was so nice topping out when I got it next go though, in the beautiful sun and with roper below... Cheers for the beta... should have waited till the hole in my finger healed though.
with roper
Got wrong footed on the crux and fell off cause i'm shit. It was so nice topping out when I got it next go though, in the beautiful sun and with roper below... Cheers for the beta... should have waited till the hole in my finger healed though.
Held Frank's rope while he sauntered up the route, crimping on matchstick ends. It was election day as well, and Thatcher was re-elected! I declined to follow.
with Frank Richards
Held Frank's rope while he sauntered up the route, crimping on matchstick ends. It was election day as well, and Thatcher was re-elected! I declined to follow.
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