Rockfax Description
A great trad route. Climb the left-hand of the two parallel cracks to a large spike belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The left-hand crack in the fine slab.
S Haston solo Jun/1983.
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Get out on Rock , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , ICAS Climbing Club , North wales road to ruins HVS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , Welsh Slate Trad , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Michelle's crack ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , LSMC to do , Wales Trip - 2022 , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Slab Dreams , Llidberis , Recommended Slate , British Rock Tour April '24 , 2024 Ticklist , UMC ticklist for the turbo punter (Trad) , Dream climbs , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simonroberts1985 | 8 Mar |
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βeta: Really nice climb, first VS in while, felt like a spicy start with 6 meter or so run out before any gear, climbing is easy enough though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really nice climb, first VS in while, felt like a spicy start with 6 meter or so run out before any gear, climbing is easy enough though. |
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| james shaughnessy | 22 Oct, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route. Good quality little (slightly-long) moves to each subsequent solid-ish stance. Felt more like a Limestone crack then the other routes hereby. Holds were genuinely greasy from the Hoomans. Whilst VS 4c is ultimately maybe a fair grade, i thoroughly would not recommend this one to the newbie VS-leader. The first placement was around (and i don't recall exactly) maybe 7m+ (...that's the height at the gable-end of a house for reference, People - with rocks below...) - and the following couple of placements are v small wires behind just-slightly-loose blocks. ...Now, those blocks MIGHT be well-chocked, but i certainly wouldn't want to test them (...they would only have to nudge a mm or two to let those v small Nuts thru) - so the first portion is essentially a potential-solo (...despite what anyone on here might say!). A good Cam only comes very high up. Then, higher up, you can see the slightly run-out section coming - which is ultimately pretty doable. Courtney got up (on-second) but slipped off a coupla times. Billy pulled on the Gear again.... Worth 2.5stars. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route. Good quality little (slightly-long) moves to each subsequent solid-ish stance. Felt more like a Limestone crack then the other routes hereby. Holds were genuinely greasy from the Hoomans. Whilst VS 4c is ultimately maybe a fair grade, i thoroughly would not recommend this one to the newbie VS-leader. The first placement was around (and i don't recall exactly) maybe 7m+ (...that's the height at the gable-end of a house for reference, People - with rocks below...) - and the following couple of placements are v small wires behind just-slightly-loose blocks. ...Now, those blocks MIGHT be well-chocked, but i certainly wouldn't want to test them (...they would only have to nudge a mm or two to let those v small Nuts thru) - so the first portion is essentially a potential-solo (...despite what anyone on here might say!). A good Cam only comes very high up. Then, higher up, you can see the slightly run-out section coming - which is ultimately pretty doable. Courtney got up (on-second) but slipped off a coupla times. Billy pulled on the Gear again.... Worth 2.5stars. |
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| bubaldo | 4 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Avoid the appealing nut placement behind the first block - it ebbs away from the wall disconcertingly when seating. A fall on gear placed here could prise the block from the wall. Be careful and make sure your belayer wears a helmet. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Avoid the appealing nut placement behind the first block - it ebbs away from the wall disconcertingly when seating. A fall on gear placed here could prise the block from the wall. Be careful and make sure your belayer wears a helmet. |
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| stratandrew | 1 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: One or two of the blocks in the seam are loose.... beware | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One or two of the blocks in the seam are loose.... beware |
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| AdJS | 16 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Lots of good small wires throughout. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lots of good small wires throughout. |
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| TommoRowe | 31 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great introduction to slate. James said none of the gear felt great though. Very enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great introduction to slate. James said none of the gear felt great though. Very enjoyable. |
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| gowain | 6 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Middle bloc is more of a wobbler than i remember... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Middle bloc is more of a wobbler than i remember... |
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| Harry_Sutcliffe | 30 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Full Crisis of confidence. You will be fine he said, There\'s loads of gear he said. Forgetting to mention that its all the same size and i spunked my nuts early on. bailing on possibly the third worst nut i have ever placed in my life. This one needs to go | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Full Crisis of confidence. You will be fine he said, There's loads of gear he said. Forgetting to mention that its all the same size and i spunked my nuts early on. bailing on possibly the third worst nut i have ever placed in my life. This one needs to go |
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| JasperBWilliams | 22 Jan, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock (~30cm cubed) in crack maybe 10m up? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Loose rock (~30cm cubed) in crack maybe 10m up? |
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| JRex | 27 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Small movement in a couple of the blocks. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Small movement in a couple of the blocks. |
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| Adam.Caine | 4 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Check placements as there are some loose blocks | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Check placements as there are some loose blocks |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Serengeti
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Gwern pillar
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gwern Graig Rock)