UKC

135m, 5 pitches. A recommended route with some fine climbing. Start about 8m below the white blaze.
1. 30m 4b Climb diagonally left up a slab to a corner left of the chimney on The Slant. Layback up the corner until it is possible to move right to a cracked slab which leads to a belay at the foot of a steep impressive wall.
2. 30m 5b Gain entry to a slim corner (left one of two possible features) then cracks to gain the left side of a large sloping ledge about halfway up the steep wall. Gain the indistinct crack-line above from a perched block on the left, then follow this and the wider crack above through an overhang to a large ledge on Sunset Slab. An improbable pitch for the grade.
3. 20m 4a Climb the groove above the the rotting remnants of an old piton until an easy left traverse leads to a ledge at the foot of an obvious groove with a yellow left wall.
4. 30m 4c Move left around an edge into an exposed position and climb up left past an overhang to a basalt recess. Climb to a small well positioned ledge, then up a short wall to belay.
5. 25m Move right and finish up the painfully rough arete.
Variation: Yellow Walls Finish 60m HVS 5a ** (2005)
Instead of moving left on pitch 4 take the obvious groove with a yellow left wall, breaking left at the top to reach a second yellow wall (30m 5a). Follow the yellow groove beneath this wall to a large ledge and easier ground (30m 4c). This pitch includes at least part of the Yellow Groove Continuation to Sunset Slab.

Andy Tibbs and Derek Bearhop 03/May/1988.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Skye Rock , UK Sandbags , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , North West to do , 3* sa Chuilthionn as t-Samhradh , Rope Solo

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User Date Notes
jon1001 11 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The crux pitch has a few suspect holds and some Hollow blocks at the half way ledge, might loose a star, go easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux pitch has a few suspect holds and some Hollow blocks at the half way ledge, might loose a star, go easy.
atibbs 31 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A descent to the starting point can be made by Lochan Traverse: From the top scramble up then rightwards til you can reach The Sgumain stone chute. Descend this until yo see a line of weakness with vague path crossing back across the buttress towards Coire Lagan. Follow this making more of a descending line at the point where it turns into a more intimidating basalt dyke. The hardest bit is the final step to Coire Lagan which can be wet.
Show beta
βeta: A descent to the starting point can be made by Lochan Traverse: From the top scramble up then rightwards til you can reach The Sgumain stone chute. Descend this until yo see a line of weakness with vague path crossing back across the buttress towards Coire Lagan. Follow this making more of a descending line at the point where it turns into a more intimidating basalt dyke. The hardest bit is the final step to Coire Lagan which can be wet.

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Guidebooks for Sgurr Alasdair - Sgurr Sgumain

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coolin' Off

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Low Crag)

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