135m, 5 pitches.
A recommended route with some fine climbing. Start about 8m below the white blaze.
1. 30m 4b Climb diagonally left up a slab to a corner left of the chimney on The Slant. Layback up the corner until it is possible to move right to a cracked slab which leads to a belay at the foot of a steep impressive wall.
2. 30m 5b Gain entry to a slim corner (left one of two possible features) then cracks to gain the left side of a large sloping ledge about halfway up the steep wall. Gain the indistinct crack-line above from a perched block on the left, then follow this and the wider crack above through an overhang to a large ledge on Sunset Slab. An improbable pitch for the grade.
3. 20m 4a Climb the groove above the the rotting remnants of an old piton until an easy left traverse leads to a ledge at the foot of an obvious groove with a yellow left wall.
4. 30m 4c Move left around an edge into an exposed position and climb up left past an overhang to a basalt recess. Climb to a small well positioned ledge, then up a short wall to belay.
5. 25m Move right and finish up the painfully rough arete.
Variation: Yellow Walls Finish 60m HVS 5a ** (2005)
Instead of moving left on pitch 4 take the obvious groove with a yellow left wall, breaking left at the top to reach a second yellow wall (30m 5a). Follow the yellow groove beneath this wall to a large ledge and easier ground (30m 4c). This pitch includes at least part of the Yellow Groove Continuation to Sunset Slab.
1. 30m 4b Climb diagonally left up a slab to a corner left of the chimney on The Slant. Layback up the corner until it is possible to move right to a cracked slab which leads to a belay at the foot of a steep impressive wall.
2. 30m 5b Gain entry to a slim corner (left one of two possible features) then cracks to gain the left side of a large sloping ledge about halfway up the steep wall. Gain the indistinct crack-line above from a perched block on the left, then follow this and the wider crack above through an overhang to a large ledge on Sunset Slab. An improbable pitch for the grade.
3. 20m 4a Climb the groove above the the rotting remnants of an old piton until an easy left traverse leads to a ledge at the foot of an obvious groove with a yellow left wall.
4. 30m 4c Move left around an edge into an exposed position and climb up left past an overhang to a basalt recess. Climb to a small well positioned ledge, then up a short wall to belay.
5. 25m Move right and finish up the painfully rough arete.
Variation: Yellow Walls Finish 60m HVS 5a ** (2005)
Instead of moving left on pitch 4 take the obvious groove with a yellow left wall, breaking left at the top to reach a second yellow wall (30m 5a). Follow the yellow groove beneath this wall to a large ledge and easier ground (30m 4c). This pitch includes at least part of the Yellow Groove Continuation to Sunset Slab.
Andy Tibbs and Derek Bearhop 03/May/1988.
Ticklists
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Skye Rock , UK Sandbags , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , North West to do , 3* sa Chuilthionn as t-Samhradh , Rope Solo
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jon1001 | 11 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux pitch has a few suspect holds and some Hollow blocks at the half way ledge, might loose a star, go easy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux pitch has a few suspect holds and some Hollow blocks at the half way ledge, might loose a star, go easy. |
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| atibbs | 31 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: A descent to the starting point can be made by Lochan Traverse: From the top scramble up then rightwards til you can reach The Sgumain stone chute. Descend this until yo see a line of weakness with vague path crossing back across the buttress towards Coire Lagan. Follow this making more of a descending line at the point where it turns into a more intimidating basalt dyke. The hardest bit is the final step to Coire Lagan which can be wet. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: A descent to the starting point can be made by Lochan Traverse: From the top scramble up then rightwards til you can reach The Sgumain stone chute. Descend this until yo see a line of weakness with vague path crossing back across the buttress towards Coire Lagan. Follow this making more of a descending line at the point where it turns into a more intimidating basalt dyke. The hardest bit is the final step to Coire Lagan which can be wet. |
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Guidebooks for Sgurr Alasdair - Sgurr Sgumain
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Route of Interest
Coolin' Off
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Low Crag)