UKC

135m, 5 pitches. A recommended route with some fine climbing. Start about 8m below the white blaze.
1. 30m 4b Climb diagonally left up a slab to a corner left of the chimney on The Slant. Layback up the corner until it is possible to move right to a cracked slab which leads to a belay at the foot of a steep impressive wall.
2. 30m 5b Gain entry to a slim corner then cracks to gain the left side of a large sloping ledge about halfway up the steep wall. Gain the indistinct crack-line above from a perched block on the left, then follow this and the wider crack above through an overhang to a large ledge on Sunset Slab. An improbable pitch for the grade.
3. 20m 4a Climb the groove above the peg until an easy left traverse leads to a ledge at the foot of an obvious groove with a yellow left wall.
4. 30m 4c Move left around an edge into an exposed position and climb up left past an overhang to a basalt recess. Climb to a small well positioned ledge, then up a short wall to belay.
5. 25m Move right and finish up the painfully rough arete.
Variation: Yellow Walls Finish 60m HVS 5a ** (2005)
Instead of moving left on pitch 4 take the obvious groove with a yellow left wall, breaking left at the top to reach a second yellow wall (30m 5a). Follow the yellow groove beneath this wall to a large ledge and easier ground (30m 4c). This pitch includes at least part of the Yellow Groove Continuation to Sunset Slab.

Andy Tibbs and Derek Bearhop 03/May/1988.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Skye Rock, UK Sandbags, GAWyllie's Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5, Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2

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Route of Interest

Rites of Passage

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Creag Druim Eadar da Choire)
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