UKC

226m, 8 pitches. Start down and right of overhangs, where a groove defines the right edge of a prominent slab.
1. 60m 4b Follow the groove and then trend left towards a perched block to belay at the back of the grass terrace.
2. 50m 4a Move right to climb a weakness up to another grass terrace to arrive below a prominent nose/pinnacle; climb a corner on its left and follow the grassy groove system above. Belay below a grass free steepening.
3. 55m 4b Climb the initial steepening and continuation grassy groove to a cul-de-sac below a large roof.
(SMC guide/original line goes right from here and in 2 pitches reaches the wide ledge to the right of the hansom cab stance before traversing it leftwards to reach the stance)
4. 15m 4a Traverse left across the slab by a discontinuous foot ledge to reach a large belay ledge on the crest.
5. 35m 5a Climb up and left to gain a large corner. Climb this/its right wall and then step right to the hansom cab stance, again on the crest (alternative E1 pitch follows the crest on the right).
6. 25m 5a step up left to climb the slab that leads right to a further slab that leads back left to belay beside pegs.
7. 40m 5a Make a big step up on to the slab above and climb its left edge to a small ledge. Climb the crack in the wall on the right.
8. 4a Climb the corner above (15m) which leads to easy ground and scrambling to the summit.

N Drasdo & C Dixon.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , HVS Adventures , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Funros , UK Holiday Plans , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Scootland big ol’ trad trip ticklist , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer

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User Date Notes
AliBaxter 27 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Expect more mountaineering than immense rock climbing. Third version of Gary latter rock is by far best description. Do the arête pitch variation and not the awful corner/wall; regret not doing this. Ignore the description on UKC, total load of rubbish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Expect more mountaineering than immense rock climbing. Third version of Gary latter rock is by far best description. Do the arête pitch variation and not the awful corner/wall; regret not doing this. Ignore the description on UKC, total load of rubbish
Camric 26 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great mountain day out. Route finding went well but stick to the GL 3rd edition. SMC route description is way off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great mountain day out. Route finding went well but stick to the GL 3rd edition. SMC route description is way off.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 21
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Storm

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis)

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