195m, 6 pitches. ****
A brilliant and very sustained adventure taking the main corner feature up the centre of the cliff. In good conditions useful ice forms on the right wall of the corner. With a big rack it’s possible to link the first two pitches.

1. VII 8 25m
Tackle the steep layback crack for 25m to the first sloping shelf.

2. VII 7 20m
Continue by the corner line before crossing a thin slab on the left (made easier with snow and ice build up on the slab).

3. VII 8 40m
Climb the right wall of the corner by a steep crack. Move back left into the corner, which is followed to a ledge. Head across the ledge to an easier groove (Dawn Grooves) and climb this till 10m below the obvious overhung corner ahead and belay.

4. VIII 8 45m
Move up to the base of the corner and climb this with poor feet (crux) to a niche on the left (possible belay).
Climb the overhanging chimney above on hero hooks to a big shelf below a chimney.

5. VII 7 50m
Climb the tight chimney to an overhang then traverse out left. Move up and right and climb the final awkward corner.

6. 15m. Easy scrabble to the top.

Jamie Skelton & Tim Miller 10/Feb/2021.

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Route of Interest

Hung, Drawn & Quartered (Winter)

Grade: VIII 8 ***
(Am Basteir)
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