UKC

76m, 3 pitches. Great exposure for the grade!

Find the route by finding the minty tree - the first significant pine tree on the left side of the carriage road about 5 mins from the East Trapps connector. This is a classic 4* (US system) beginner's outing. It is possible, with running out to minimise rope drag, to do in a single pitch but really not recommended!

P1: Climb a right-facing dihedral (easy if tall!) to a ledge, then work left and up aiming for a severely leaning pine tree. 5.3, 60'.

P2: Can be split in two to extend the first pitch, or to add an extra pitch. Climb left from the pine tree on the face to the bent over pine tree. (optional stance) You will pass a couple of pins. From that ledge climb up and onto the face. A small hole in a flake indicates where to step out onto the face again. (Continuing up the chimney was the original route but not as fun, not 4*, and ~5.3). Go up the face for some good exposure (crux) to the GT ledge. Build a belay or use the rap anchors. 5.4+, 120'

P3: The classic is to take the easy right crack up to the top. 5.3 50'. A more interesting variation is to take the crack to the roof and pull over the roof at 5.5. A pin marks this spot.

1941.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

9 users have logged this
2 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 5.4
Mid 5.4
Low 5.4
High 5.3
Mid 5.3
Low 5.3
High 5.2
Mid 5.2
Low 5.2
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Three Pines

Grade: 5.3 ***
(Shawangunks (The Gunks))

Loading Notifications...