Climbs 194
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 5m a.s.l

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Looking towards the Land of Giants © robertmitchellgardiner

Crag features

A detailed mini guide with more informaiton can be found here.

There are two main rock types at Sheigra. The climbing directly north of the beach is on classic lewisian gneiss which is well known by trad climbers. Either side of this (north and south) are sedimentary rocks which range from very smooth, fine-grained sandstone to pebbly conglomerates. Both the gneiss and sandstone are excellent, but the conglomerate rock can be quite variable depending on which part of the cliff the boulder fell from. As such, some of the pebbles can be quite loose so do climb carefully. However, where the conglomerate is good it is truly outstanding and lends itself to uniquely featured boulders and amazing climbing.

All the climbing areas face the open ocean and so there is usually a consistent wind which is great for keeping awaythe midges and fast drying. None of the climbing we have done has been tidal, but access to certain areas is easier at low tide. A tarpaulin and bailer are very useful for the many rock pools.

Since this is a very remote part of Scotland help is not easily found and if you get into trouble access is difficult and there is little or
no phone reception. Please take all precautions both in climbing and approaching areas, which oftn invovles steep approaches and/or downclimbing. Similarly, the problems you find may not be totally secure so take care when climbing. As with all climbing in the North west, climb with someone else, take plenty of pads/safety equipment, and let someone know where you have gone. 

Approach notes

The easiest way to get to Sheigra is to come from the east coast past Lairg along the A838 to Laxford Bridge, from which you turn right heading north. If you are coming from the west coast, follow the A894 north and continue north on the A838 at Laxford Bridge. This isn't a junction, rather the road changes name to the one coming from the east coast. From here drive for about 5 miles until you reach Rhiconich and turn left towards Kinlochbervie just after the police. In the middle of Kinlochbervie you need to turn right towards Oldshoremore. Drive through Oldshoremore and keep driving past the car park for Sandwood Bay (very noticeable as it has a toilet block) and down the hill towards Shiegra Village. The main parking is at the beach via a left turn. Recently, the bach has been closed to vehicles so you should park just next to the cemetery. If you are heading to the Land of Giants, ignore this left hand turn and park at the very end of the village on the grassy layby.

Aside from the beach walls which are a short walk from the beach, most of the climbing is on the Promontory just North of the Beach, or in the Land of Giants which is further North still. Maps and more detailed guidance can be found in the mini guide:

The Promontory

Directly north of the beach, a 10 minute walk along the promontory of rock which runs south west into the sea leads you to a tight collection of outstanding gneiss boulders and walls.To access the boulders, you need to down-climb or belay down the steep slab. This is a serious apprach and whilst the climbing is very easy, the drop is rather daunting which is why some climbers choose to belay in instead. Once at the bottom, cross the bridge made of boulders
and you are on a kind of ‘island’ or rock with obvious boulders and steep seaward facing walls. 

The Lanf of Giants

This is most easily accessible from the east over land. Park considerately at the north end of the village in the grassy layby. From here there is a well-maintained peat road heading north. After going through this gate, turn left and follow the fence line heading
directly towards the highest peak. Once at the top you should see a small loch, which you pass on the left side going downhill
through a shallow valley. Pass another slightly larger loch (which sits in the bottom of the valley just next to the cliff edge) on the left and climb over the stone wall. You are now faced with a very steep slope leading down to the Land of Giants. This can
be approached one of two ways:
1. Trend diagonally left following the vague sheep tracks. It is best to keep heading left where the slope will eventually lead to more secure boulders. This route is the most direct way, but the ground is quite loose and the fall feels very daunting.
2. Trend right along the base of the cliff. This is still very steep but the grassy ground feels more secure and a fall is much less daunting. This way is slightly longer but feels more secure.

Just to Add that the Promontory Boulders are Tricky to get to. Its a downclimb WITH pads.....Be careful as you are a long way from help. Worth it though...ENJOY
scragrock - 15/Jun/16
Hey, I didn't know that all my problems had been uploaded to UKC. This is great. I am just updating my guide. There are now over 100 problems here and all are documented with a photo guide. Thanks.
robertmitchellgardiner - 26/Aug/15
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