From Branislav Adamec's own trip report;
The access to the wall led up an avalanche threatened ice couloir. By noon we approached a small cave at the top of the first ice field, where we had cached equipment on the first try.
We continued on for some time and returned to the cave for the night. The difficulty on this first day was 70deg ice and UIAA IV+ rock.
On the 13th we ascended the ropes fixed the day before. Then the first problem on the wall awaited us; the ice couloir that led to the second ice field. There we found some pitons with runners left behind on previous attempts. There were parts of the couloir that were 80deg. Above, we had two pitches of 65deg on the snowfield and one more on the buttress. Finally we could find a bivouac site. On September 14, after we climbed 65 to 70deg in the ice field, we came to the next problem; a huge rock and ice step. We climbed this in an 85deg water ice groove. Darkness overtook us when we were still two rope lengths from the summit chimney. We dug tiny platforms in the ice, placing our feet in rucksacks for the night. The route continued on for two lengths of water ice 75 to 80deg and then a terrible rotten chimney encrusted with snow and ice, which took the leader three hours. During the next pitches, the rock got better. With the light of our headlamps, we got to a fine bivouac spot, but either chopping ice or cooking, we didn't finish until midnight. On September 16, we first had a pitch of 80deg water ice, then mixed pitches of IV+ and 70deg. We finally climbed the ice slope below the summit and at 2.30pm reached the summit. We spent one more cold bivouac on the descent. A day later we were back in base camp, drinking beer with our friends and celebrating our beautiful and difficult route.
The other members of the expedition were Arnost Holub, Jan Krch and Jiri Slavik
The access to the wall led up an avalanche threatened ice couloir. By noon we approached a small cave at the top of the first ice field, where we had cached equipment on the first try.
We continued on for some time and returned to the cave for the night. The difficulty on this first day was 70deg ice and UIAA IV+ rock.
On the 13th we ascended the ropes fixed the day before. Then the first problem on the wall awaited us; the ice couloir that led to the second ice field. There we found some pitons with runners left behind on previous attempts. There were parts of the couloir that were 80deg. Above, we had two pitches of 65deg on the snowfield and one more on the buttress. Finally we could find a bivouac site. On September 14, after we climbed 65 to 70deg in the ice field, we came to the next problem; a huge rock and ice step. We climbed this in an 85deg water ice groove. Darkness overtook us when we were still two rope lengths from the summit chimney. We dug tiny platforms in the ice, placing our feet in rucksacks for the night. The route continued on for two lengths of water ice 75 to 80deg and then a terrible rotten chimney encrusted with snow and ice, which took the leader three hours. During the next pitches, the rock got better. With the light of our headlamps, we got to a fine bivouac spot, but either chopping ice or cooking, we didn't finish until midnight. On September 16, we first had a pitch of 80deg water ice, then mixed pitches of IV+ and 70deg. We finally climbed the ice slope below the summit and at 2.30pm reached the summit. We spent one more cold bivouac on the descent. A day later we were back in base camp, drinking beer with our friends and celebrating our beautiful and difficult route.
The other members of the expedition were Arnost Holub, Jan Krch and Jiri Slavik
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