Altitude 222m a.s.l
Me on the crux of No Musketeers Direct © Greg Pittam
Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.
17/2/2020: *** Cavers have been digging out a cave to left of Renaissance and Bubble Memory and have left debris on the path, please take care until the situation is resolved ***
Park for free at the Lower Wireworks public car park (Behind the Royal George Hotel NP16 6TQ), which is a little closer than the pay and display at Tintern Abbey, walk back to the A466 and head NW for about 50 metres turning right after the Abbey Mill down a lane that leads foot bridge over the river. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.
For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.
If you access from the Tintern Quarry parking please do not block any of the gates. These are very important to facilitated the access of emergency services in case of an emergency so it can save your own life.
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting BirdsTawny owls are nesting on the Buttress With No Name - they are known to ferrociously defend their nests so for your own safety as well as the birds please avoid all climbs on the buttress during the restricted period.
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