25m.
Rockfax Description
The wall past a distinctive diagonal overlap. © Rockfax
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| James Malloch | 19 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: BETA WARNING. Spray of beta for if I make it back here… Crux 1 (from rail). RF on coin/blob and hands on rail. Put LF high up onto small diagonal foothold. Bump LH to crimp. Bump RF up, get sprag with RH and bump RF up to rail. Roll RH over to crimp next to flake and then Gaston into flake with LH. Match and get LH undercut. Put RF on sidepull and stand up to put LF on blob. Get LH crimp (sharp thumb is important) and then get RH into bottom of crack. Step high RF, flag and go into crack. Crux 2 Come RH over to pinch, RF up and left of bolt and go to good LF (past most obvious ones). LH Gaston into top of crack and RH Gaston on top of crack. Sort feet and throw LH to undercut and bump RF. Intermediate crimp with LF on smear and go to good RH crimp. LF I to crack, get lower part of Left crimp (pinch with thumb). Shuffle LF up a bit and RF goes far out right. RH throw to crimp below flake (3 fingers good thumb). Bump LF up onto top edge of crack. LH backhand into flake. RH to crozzle with good thumb. LF to tiny shield. RF to a small but good FH (to right of biggest bits). RH to top of flake press with LH on face and step up with LF. Get jugs and it’s over. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: BETA WARNING. Spray of beta for if I make it back here… Crux 1 (from rail). RF on coin/blob and hands on rail. Put LF high up onto small diagonal foothold. Bump LH to crimp. Bump RF up, get sprag with RH and bump RF up to rail. Roll RH over to crimp next to flake and then Gaston into flake with LH. Match and get LH undercut. Put RF on sidepull and stand up to put LF on blob. Get LH crimp (sharp thumb is important) and then get RH into bottom of crack. Step high RF, flag and go into crack. Crux 2 Come RH over to pinch, RF up and left of bolt and go to good LF (past most obvious ones). LH Gaston into top of crack and RH Gaston on top of crack. Sort feet and throw LH to undercut and bump RF. Intermediate crimp with LF on smear and go to good RH crimp. LF I to crack, get lower part of Left crimp (pinch with thumb). Shuffle LF up a bit and RF goes far out right. RH throw to crimp below flake (3 fingers good thumb). Bump LF up onto top edge of crack. LH backhand into flake. RH to crozzle with good thumb. LF to tiny shield. RF to a small but good FH (to right of biggest bits). RH to top of flake press with LH on face and step up with LF. Get jugs and it’s over. |
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Route of Interest
El Centinella (L1+L2)
Grade: 7c+ ***
(Siurana - Valley)