This excellent crag is fairly low but it is about 150m long, there is a large roof at half height for most of the length of the crag. The two best routes take easy lines over the roof, and are Icarus(HVS) and Pingora(HVS). There is also one unrepeated bolted route which is ~F8a+ .
The protection is fairly limited, but top roping is simple due to the trees.
The rock is generally excellent, and the situation is fantastic, especially in the evening.
The quickest way to reach the crag (about 40mins) is from the lay-by at Gilpin Bridge. The crag is about 1km SE of Lords Seat, it is hidden in the trees from the vague track, but it is opposite 'the rhino stone'.
There are no access problems.