55m. A route with great variety with an improbable crux that epitomises committing Mourne friction climbing.
The direct line from base to summit left of Alice in wonderland.
Start on the slab directly below the detached block, move up to a small rail 1m below the detached block mantle up and move up right around the detached block to step up slightly right below the dirty crack the swing left using the layback crack on the left, follow this up and mantle above into a dirt bed ledge slot below the recently cleaned crack, jam into the crack with the help of pockets on left on the slab and move up the crack system towards the crux. Place good cams in the right crack before committing to the friction seam on the left while standing in the short foot width crack, using friction hands (fingers) move up from this to gain another friction pocket on the left and a thin friction rail on the right below another detached block, follow past this to easier ground on the left to the top (slight off width containing turf) good bridging here.

Niall Burns, Oisin Cassidy-Dawson 26/Mar/2025.

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