UKC

Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Slipshod belaying © phantom whistler

Crag features

Short Steep Routes where gear requires a little though in places. Quite hard if damp and in rough seas the ledges can become a little sea washed but are generally OK. Wonderful relaxed spot away from the crowds.

Approach notes

Head west up and over Winspit quarry and along the coast path passing a stone seat on the headland for approx 400m, passing a narrowing bushy part of the path until you reach the start of some wooden fence post on the left. Descend a small vegitated slope for 10m until the semi-vegitated topout ledge on left-hand side appears. There is a large pointed boulder and a good thread on the loose looking back wall. The abseil desecent is down the line of Query at the right-hand end of the ledge (looking out to sea). There are two abseil stakes (one rusty) which appear OK at the far left-hand end above the route The Corner.

Other routes can belay from the abseil boulder, the stakes or good nuts in the back wall - just look carefully as it's quite loose in places.

For Sutton continue on west heading around Crab Hole until you can see the path turn right.. There are 2 shallow bush filled gullys in cliff top the first has a abseil stake in it (2rd up on ridge left looking out) Abseil from here to gain the flat top and down the corner to under the huge block of Fifteen to One.

The platform at sea level is only friendly in very calm seas.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the area west of Slippery Ledge.

Guidebooks

Swanage (2015)

Out of print:
The loose block in the exit groove of "Dorset Non-Rhyming Slang" (mentioned in the old CC guide description) is no longer there, after being inadvertently trundled on 28.06.13 ...nobody was injured :-)
The Ivanator - 02/Jul/13
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