UKC

30m, 2 pitches. Traverses out. under the roof from the end of the main ledge. Belay on good ledge below boulder tower. ( not in the bottomless niche). Top pitch is bold up the wall right of the wall on right side of the arete of Crab Hole. Technically not in the seasonal bird restriction, but best avoided mid season.

T.Dunsby, N.Coe 22/May/1982.

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User Date Notes
Zac Jones 29 Mar Show βeta
βeta: 2nd pitch 1 - nice traverse quite techy with greasy break for hands. Lead pitch 2 - big run out after black totem and #6 nut. Pranged out a bit on the run out as moves werent immediately obvious but didn’t lob off, rewarded with decent holds and good gear before traversing out to the right. Overall a decent route with excellent positions (if you’ve got a cool head to appreciate them). 1 star adventure route but probably more like HVS 5a
Show beta
βeta: 2nd pitch 1 - nice traverse quite techy with greasy break for hands. Lead pitch 2 - big run out after black totem and #6 nut. Pranged out a bit on the run out as moves werent immediately obvious but didn’t lob off, rewarded with decent holds and good gear before traversing out to the right. Overall a decent route with excellent positions (if you’ve got a cool head to appreciate them). 1 star adventure route but probably more like HVS 5a

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Route of Interest
Lightning Wall Direct

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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