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Climbs 102
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 163m a.s.l
Faces E

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Another New Line Down On The Coast © Franco Cookson

Crag features

A series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the village of Ravenscar. There are several buttresses currently undergoing development. There are many strong lines, especially in the low to mid E-grades. Much of the lower grade lines remain unclimbed, though when they are the crag will be one of the premier venues of the area. Get involved!

Much of the rock is clean, though cracklines and top outs are often vegetated on unclimbed lines. There is currently around 40 routes with that number set to double (mainly in the lower grades).

The crags take little drainage and are solid in the main. Overall it is quick drying and offers good conditions in the heat of summer and the cold and dry of winter - a true all round venue. However, the crag is brackenous in summer, though regular walking of the paths will keep them clear of bracken and in good order. NOTE: Ticks are common!

Approach the village of Ravenscar from the A171 and upon arrival in the village bear right past the Raven Hall Hotel to park at Station Square. Follow the Cleveland Way north-west back towards the hotel. When passing a second lone bush on the left of the path at a short downhill section, a yellow-topped marker post should be present on the right. A vague track leads to the crag through the trees.

Alternatively, a ‘fishermans line’ leads down from the Cleveland Way sign or cut straight down the hillside to the top of your buttress of choice.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

To access Contraband from above, walk towards the Ravenscar Hotel from the village parking before cutting down to the right through bushes at red and white marker tape, around 40m before the lone house on the left. An old piece of sheet metal is found at the top of Contraband Buttress. Abseil in.

For Illusion Buttress and Evasion Buttress head 10m beyond the house then drop down the hillside when a blue marker is seen in the trees. Evasion drops straight down from this point, while Illusion is found walking left to a piece of plastic 'pointing the way'. Abseil in.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

All the approaches will be fine once the crag gets a few visits each month to keep them well trodden. All the unclimbed lines are fair game though generally very vegetated - get on it! However, obvious route cleaning would suggest someone else is 'on with it'.

Approach notes

See crag description. An affinity with the crag is extremely useful!

http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/smugglers-terrace-mini-guide.html

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

http://climbonline.co.uk/PDFs/NYM%20Mini%20Guides/Smugglers%20Terrace2014Oct.pdf
Simon Caldwell - 17/May/15
Amazing location, loads of stuff to keep you busy, climbing a offwidth crack starting a cave to the left of Easter island buttress, awesome climb but nightmare on the top out
1176gws - 13/Nov/13
Great crag, offering some fab routes. Loads more to go at.
Franco Cookson - 31/Oct/12
Now home to some excellent and varied climbing, with plenty left to do throughout the grades. This and Stoupe Brow offer good sandstone climbing on the coast!
Dave Warburton - 12/Aug/12
Be carefull when trying to put up new routes here. It is wise to abseil the routes before climbing them. Yesterday, Whilst trying to onsight a new route left of the contraband butress, I got caught it a wee rock fall! (be wary of the cracks with the debris below)
Sam Marks - 13/Feb/12
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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Dave Warburton