50m.
An obvious line right of centre, starting at a good hand crack. Enjoyable climbing for 5m up 5a/5b hand crack. Move left into a scoop and follow the mossy staircase at 3c past rickety flakes... easy, but bold and very dirty (moss and clay/dust). Where the rock steepens, clean your shoes, then move up and rightward into a groove to two good and welcome threads. A few trickier 5b moves up the groove lead to a sketchy 5b rockover rightward to gain a vegetated ledge. Rope drag is likely to be excruciating at this point. Finish up an awkward 5a/5b hand crack up and slightly left.
Completely overhyped in the guides, this is not a 3-star pitch, but rather a few good moves separated out by dirty ledge shuffling on sometimes suspect rock with significant rope drag potential. May feel better climbed in two short pitches.
Completely overhyped in the guides, this is not a 3-star pitch, but rather a few good moves separated out by dirty ledge shuffling on sometimes suspect rock with significant rope drag potential. May feel better climbed in two short pitches.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 23 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Last route of the day... 1 star... dirty... half-brick hold broke... fiddly gear... ab tat awful coreshot rope, so downlead to better spot, tatted it and abbed off in the dark. Guidebook writers either haven't climbed it or have lost all sense of proportion to give this 3 stars... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Last route of the day... 1 star... dirty... half-brick hold broke... fiddly gear... ab tat awful coreshot rope, so downlead to better spot, tatted it and abbed off in the dark. Guidebook writers either haven't climbed it or have lost all sense of proportion to give this 3 stars... |
||||
Logged Ascents
4 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Snowman's Bluff
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Icarus
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Dragon Rock)