Restricted Access
Access to get to Sormiou (and Morgiou too) is restricted in the summer (and also on windy days in hot weather when the fire risk is elevated). The restriction is only on the approach road and it is possible to walk in from the barrier - 1 hour. On weekends from 23rd March to 8th June, and every day between June 9th and September 13th parking anywhere along the road is not permitted between 8:30 and 19:30 due to narrow roads and serious problems with congestion. If you wish to drive in during these periods then arrive early and leave late.
4 pitches.
4c, 2b, 4c, 3b
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| frednat | 30 May, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seen this rated 5a for the first pitch and 5a/5b for the third pitch. The bolts are rock solid glue-ins and ample. Seems a bit steep for 4c. Some polish, but footholds are always secure. Second pitch: there is a sharp arête with no pro which you can climb and protect with a couple of slings (3c/4a, airy) or just walk to the left of the arête up to the bolted "2b" to the platform with 2 bolts anchor. For the third pitch: either left up the obvious corner dihedral (slippery 5c) or up just left of the arête onto the 4c/5a. Both protected. It's unclear where the third pitch ends as there are multiple 2 bolt anchors along the way. I bypassed the first two bolts as they would have made for an airy belay. Further along onto easier ground (3 ish) leads to a wide comfortable angled ledge with two bolts. The approach is a well-protected fun adventure in itself if you go via the Grotte des Capelans! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Seen this rated 5a for the first pitch and 5a/5b for the third pitch. The bolts are rock solid glue-ins and ample. Seems a bit steep for 4c. Some polish, but footholds are always secure. Second pitch: there is a sharp arête with no pro which you can climb and protect with a couple of slings (3c/4a, airy) or just walk to the left of the arête up to the bolted "2b" to the platform with 2 bolts anchor. For the third pitch: either left up the obvious corner dihedral (slippery 5c) or up just left of the arête onto the 4c/5a. Both protected. It's unclear where the third pitch ends as there are multiple 2 bolt anchors along the way. I bypassed the first two bolts as they would have made for an airy belay. Further along onto easier ground (3 ish) leads to a wide comfortable angled ledge with two bolts. The approach is a well-protected fun adventure in itself if you go via the Grotte des Capelans! |
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Route of Interest
Arête du Vallon
Grade: 4c ***
(Luminy)