Restricted Access
Access to get to Sormiou (and Morgiou too) is restricted in the summer (and also on windy days in hot weather when the fire risk is elevated). The restriction is only on the approach road and it is possible to walk in from the barrier - 1 hour. On weekends from 23rd March to 8th June, and every day between June 9th and September 13th parking anywhere along the road is not permitted between 8:30 and 19:30 due to narrow roads and serious problems with congestion. If you wish to drive in during these periods then arrive early and leave late.
6 pitches.
5c, 5b+, 5a, 4a, 4c, 4a
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jeremythomson | 15 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route on great rock, outstanding views. No real difficulties it all goes at grade 4b to 5b. Bolts are quite spaced out in places especially the traverse above the cave and the upper sections. Tip to keep the rope dry: Make the abseil from the cave as normal but stop at the second belay of the climb (25m, two mismatched bolts) rather than continuing to the bottom. Pull down the ropes carefully then use one rope doubled up for the final abseil which is only about 15m. The ends of a doubled 50m rope will just touch the water so you may want to hank up the last few metres. Make the final abseil to the bottom belay which is about 6-7m above the sea just above the wave-cut overhang. It's wise to top-rope this first pitch using the rope you just abbed down on, as if you pull it down from it will likely end up in the sea! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route on great rock, outstanding views. No real difficulties it all goes at grade 4b to 5b. Bolts are quite spaced out in places especially the traverse above the cave and the upper sections. Tip to keep the rope dry: Make the abseil from the cave as normal but stop at the second belay of the climb (25m, two mismatched bolts) rather than continuing to the bottom. Pull down the ropes carefully then use one rope doubled up for the final abseil which is only about 15m. The ends of a doubled 50m rope will just touch the water so you may want to hank up the last few metres. Make the final abseil to the bottom belay which is about 6-7m above the sea just above the wave-cut overhang. It's wise to top-rope this first pitch using the rope you just abbed down on, as if you pull it down from it will likely end up in the sea! |
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Route of Interest
Le Château d'Encre (L1)
Grade: 5c ***
(Luminy)