UKC

Restricted Access

Nelwy developed sports climbing site. Warning - there is a known and active peregrine nest site very close to the the climbing area. Any disturbance to the birds or the nest site would be illegal as the birds have special legal protection under wildlife  legislation. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A well used and historical peregrine nesting site is located on the right hand side of the crag. This is a very well monitored site with well documented historical records of productivity and success rate. Climbing activity close to the nest has attracted a lot of negative comments from local residents and from various conservationists. 

Following a site visit it has been suggested that no climbing takes places from March 1st until July 31st on all routes and sectors to the right of (and including) the route "Nuns and Soldiers". 

In the meantime be aware that this is an actively monitored site, located on land owned by Natural Resources Wales and if you encounter sign of agitated and noisy birds (lots of screeching and flying around in circles) then in all likleyhood you are disturbing the nesting birds and need to leave. It's best to avoid the upper tier (far right) of the crag completely until the end of July.

Any disturbance of the nesting birds (even if unintentional) is a criminal offence and South Wales Police have issued warnings to climbers leaving the site. 

2m. Start right of Altered Carbon. Start left hand pinch, right hand on flat jug. Go up to small sloper with right hand sort feet and stretch for small edge with right , finish with both hands on good holds above. Jump off. Wedged block and prow to the right are not used. More difficult if you can't reach the small edge.

Will Calvert 24/Mar/2021.

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High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
Route of Interest
Barbecue Ribs

Grade: f6A+ ***
(Wild West Boulders (treherbert Mountain))

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