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175m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 4a, 35m, 2) 5a, 40m, 3) 5b, 30m, 4) 5c, 20m, 5) 5c, 20m, 6) 5b, 30m. There is a fingery section on pitch 4, and the route is well bolted. The upper stances are small - a consideration if doing the route as a three.
Descent - The best descent (approach shoes needed) is to head left - cairns and blue paint - to drop into the gully to the right of Jurassic Park then loop back round to the base of the route - about 45-60 minutes. If you miss a cairn it is worth backtracking. It is also possible to use the Panorama abseil on a 70m rope (2 x 32m abseils) - see page 322. However the chances are this will take you quite a bit longer than walking. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4a, 5a, 5b, 5b, 5c, 5b

Start left of the fence to the left of Spartacus.

FA. Urs Odermatt, Peter Keller, Markus Leippold Sep/2013.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Kalymnos Top 50

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User Date Notes
walshieboy 11 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, well bolted and a great line. We climbed as a 3, alternating leads. Bit cosy on one of the belays, but OK. Definitely worth the top 50 rating :-)
 
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, well bolted and a great line. We climbed as a 3, alternating leads. Bit cosy on one of the belays, but OK. Definitely worth the top 50 rating :-)
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tzar147 ?? Lead O/S
with Ben
with Ben
Andy Chubb 3 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S Perfect conditions - in the shade the whole way with no wind at all. We were second pair on it with 3 other pairs behind us, so clearly a popular route. Climbed in 5 pitches by running the first two together into a mega pitch, which requited skipping the odd bolt. Continuously interesting from there to the top. Never hard, well bolted and good fun. Probably better than ‘Wings’ as it’s more consistent, but less of an adventure.
with Nick Gregory
Perfect conditions - in the shade the whole way with no wind at all. We were second pair on it with 3 other pairs behind us, so clearly a popular route. Climbed in 5 pitches by running the first two together into a mega pitch, which requited skipping the odd bolt. Continuously interesting from there to the top. Never hard, well bolted and good fun. Probably better than ‘Wings’ as it’s more consistent, but less of an adventure.
with Nick Gregory
Rob84 21 Oct, 2019 Lead O/S Great route - for info it’s easy to skip a few bolts and string pitches 1&2 and 3&4 together.
with mel_1
Great route - for info it’s easy to skip a few bolts and string pitches 1&2 and 3&4 together.
with mel_1
Hidden 21 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S
Rachel09 8 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Pav
with Pav
Hidden 8 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S
JoshRawson 8 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S Huge unnecessary backpack made this feel like 6C hahahaha, was great fun though and the repel over grand grotto was absolutely amazing!
Huge unnecessary backpack made this feel like 6C hahahaha, was great fun though and the repel over grand grotto was absolutely amazing!
Small and weak 23 Sep, 2019 AltLd
with Irene, Vasilliki, Whorlhill, cmcoapes
with Irene, Vasilliki, Whorlhill, cmcoapes
Hidden 23 Sep, 2019 Lead
Whorlhill 23 Sep, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Irene, Small and weak
with Irene, Small and weak
Sylwia Janik 16 Sep, 2019 AltLd O/S Led odd pitches
Led odd pitches
Hidden 16 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S
danoflynn 16 Sep, 2019 AltLd O/S Led even pitches. Sylwinka's first multipitch!
Led even pitches. Sylwinka's first multipitch!
Carnie Lisa 7 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S Fantastic!
with Dan Verge
Fantastic!
with Dan Verge
Dandan 7 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S Excellent fun
Excellent fun
robbielee1 28 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S Led p2,4,5,6
with Kate Maguire
Led p2,4,5,6
with Kate Maguire
Danielle Whitman 28 Jun, 2019 AltLd
Philippa Leckie 28 Jun, 2019 AltLd First multipitch :)
First multipitch :)
Ned Jones 27 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S
with Zac
with Zac
Hidden 13 Jun, 2019 AltLd
John 'B' Hutchinson 13 May, 2019 AltLd O/S A good day out and thankfully in the shade until the very top. Beautiful views and a sense of remoteness away from the crowds. Rebby's first multi-pitch sport climb, who led pitches 1 and 3. Walk back via Jurassic Park well way-marked, took about 40 mins to get back to base of route.
with Rebby
A good day out and thankfully in the shade until the very top. Beautiful views and a sense of remoteness away from the crowds. Rebby's first multi-pitch sport climb, who led pitches 1 and 3. Walk back via Jurassic Park well way-marked, took about 40 mins to get back to base of route.
with Rebby
walshieboy 11 May, 2019 Lead O/S Fantastic route, well bolted and a great line. We climbed as a 3, alternating leads. Bit cosy on one of the belays, but OK. Definitely worth the top 50 rating :-)
with Oscar Chatterley, Reevo
Fantastic route, well bolted and a great line. We climbed as a 3, alternating leads. Bit cosy on one of the belays, but OK. Definitely worth the top 50 rating :-)
with Oscar Chatterley, Reevo
Hidden 11 May, 2019 AltLd O/S
Andy Waterhouse 8 May, 2019 AltLd O/S
Matt Justice 8 May, 2019 AltLd
Rebby 7 May, 2019 AltLd Alternated leads for four pitches then B finished
Alternated leads for four pitches then B finished
Rebby 7 May, 2019 Lead O/S
NicoleClimbs 6 May, 2019 Lead
with cmars89
with cmars89
cmars89 6 May, 2019 AltLd O/S Lead P1/2/4/5
Lead P1/2/4/5
steve2006 24 Apr, 2019 Lead rpt
with Tom Andrews (HMC)
with Tom Andrews (HMC)
Just Will 14 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
edbrooks9 24 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Rained on pitch 4 & 6 seconds!
Rained on pitch 4 & 6 seconds!
dean_c88 24 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Swinging leads in the rain!
Swinging leads in the rain!
hotfeet 21 Oct, 2018 AltLd
HelenB 15 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Ridiculously busy with incredibly slow team of 3 up ahead - spent 2 hours on just the first belay, finally back down at 6pm... Led pitches 1 and 3.
Ridiculously busy with incredibly slow team of 3 up ahead - spent 2 hours on just the first belay, finally back down at 6pm... Led pitches 1 and 3.
Elman 14 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Oct, 2018 AltLd
jackob 9 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Led 3,4,5,6 followwed by a wild abseil off the grande grotto
Led 3,4,5,6 followwed by a wild abseil off the grande grotto
Hidden 9 Oct, 2018 AltLd
ljkenny 6 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S 6 Pitches - Massive 80m, no legged abseil over the mouth of a cave - Amazing!!!
6 Pitches - Massive 80m, no legged abseil over the mouth of a cave - Amazing!!!
Kimberley Maiyh 1 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S Lead 2nd pitch
Lead 2nd pitch
Hidden 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dalz 27 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Dry with showers
Dry with showers
Schven 24 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
wlin 24 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Led even pitches 3h30m up; 3h15m epic down in dark :(
with Steve C
Led even pitches 3h30m up; 3h15m epic down in dark :(
with Steve C
Hidden 22 Sep, 2018 Lead β
dranoel 31 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Swung leads, I led first 2 pitches and 4th and 6th pitch. 4th pitch 5b felt the hardest.
with Ben Eberhardt
Swung leads, I led first 2 pitches and 4th and 6th pitch. 4th pitch 5b felt the hardest.
with Ben Eberhardt
Hidden 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt
charliesmith 21 Jun, 2018 -
steve2006 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Hanging belay were a pleasent surprise
with charliesmith, Dave
Hanging belay were a pleasent surprise
with charliesmith, Dave
Alexey 28 May, 2018 2nd RP First multipitch experience. Pretty enjoyable climb.
with Simon, Anna
First multipitch experience. Pretty enjoyable climb.
with Simon, Anna
Esperanza 27 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
elcapitainkev 27 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Panorama abseil definite faff, not recommended. Pitches could easily be joined up. Unable to do so as so many groups on the route. Slow moving. Get up early. A bit vegetated and a little loose on occasion. Not a bad route but three stars?
Panorama abseil definite faff, not recommended. Pitches could easily be joined up. Unable to do so as so many groups on the route. Slow moving. Get up early. A bit vegetated and a little loose on occasion. Not a bad route but three stars?
Guy Harris 28 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
Fred-altivouac ??, 2018 -
AdventureMark 27 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with David Lomax
with David Lomax
Curly Rich 19 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S 2,4,6
with GMC Peter Neden
2,4,6
with GMC Peter Neden
sambo 19 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
petegruf 9 Oct, 2017 AltLd Easier than expected. Fun but cold and windy in the all day shade. The belay in the greek book 15 m below the top has had the hangers removed. Long walk off down the gully esp. as we missed the turn back to the bottom of the route. Noticed afterwards that theres possibly a 35 m ab descent further along from the 80 m grande grotte one.
with tim t
Easier than expected. Fun but cold and windy in the all day shade. The belay in the greek book 15 m below the top has had the hangers removed. Long walk off down the gully esp. as we missed the turn back to the bottom of the route. Noticed afterwards that theres possibly a 35 m ab descent further along from the 80 m grande grotte one.
with tim t
Tony Myers 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt
Potsy 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Great fun. Lynn's first big multi pitch route and it was good value. The 5c pitches were great, nice climbing but pretty exposed. I led p1, 3 & 5. Hard work communicating from top as the suggested belay just before it has been chopped. Decent was good too until the markers seem to stop, had to scramble our own way down. Great adventure.
Great fun. Lynn's first big multi pitch route and it was good value. The 5c pitches were great, nice climbing but pretty exposed. I led p1, 3 & 5. Hard work communicating from top as the suggested belay just before it has been chopped. Decent was good too until the markers seem to stop, had to scramble our own way down. Great adventure.
lynnpotts84 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with Potsy
with Potsy
Malaka 24 Sep, 2017 AltLd
with Semen
with Semen
Paul Sagar u 23 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt Took Ali up. Still a great climb - a shame the guide who was at the base of the route didn't allow us to jump on first, meaning we were stuck behind her party of two novices even after sitting at the bottom and waiting an hour and a half to start...what a douche.
Took Ali up. Still a great climb - a shame the guide who was at the base of the route didn't allow us to jump on first, meaning we were stuck behind her party of two novices even after sitting at the bottom and waiting an hour and a half to start...what a douche.
Hidden 20 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
pymn nice but dim 9 May, 2017 Solo O/S Solo onsight. 2.5 hours bar to bar. First 5 pitches entirely free solo, upper pitches semi protected by linking slings or draws between bolts. Nice line, good holds, 2 insecure sections. Interesting descent.
Solo onsight. 2.5 hours bar to bar. First 5 pitches entirely free solo, upper pitches semi protected by linking slings or draws between bolts. Nice line, good holds, 2 insecure sections. Interesting descent.
Hidden 2 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
cdpuk u 2 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
RobScarisbrick 2 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
with JHammond, Alex Haines, cdpuk
with JHammond, Alex Haines, cdpuk
alibyrnie 27 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Michele Duffar, Tania Matsuka
with Michele Duffar, Tania Matsuka
BLUBBSTER 20 Apr, 2017 2nd
AAhmed 28 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Fenda 24 Mar, 2017 AltLd Perhaps one of the first to climb the route this season. Some vegetation lower down and loose rock but still very enjoyable. Went as a 3 and belay stances were just about manageable. Pitch lengths are generally a bit shorter than listed.
with Hanan, Seth
Perhaps one of the first to climb the route this season. Some vegetation lower down and loose rock but still very enjoyable. Went as a 3 and belay stances were just about manageable. Pitch lengths are generally a bit shorter than listed.
with Hanan, Seth
garywong 24 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with rd20
with rd20
rd20 24 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S RD even pitches
RD even pitches
hazeysunshine 23 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 21 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Steve Clegg 21 Oct, 2016 AltLd
with Zoe
with Zoe
Hidden 20 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Paul Sagar u 28 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Epic climb. Not as long as the guidebook says in the first two pitches (which are very easy). The 5C pitches are good value. NOTE: the 10 meters to go anchor described in the book has been chopped; you will have to go direct to the top. If there is any wind at all it is impossible to hear you partner - we relied on text message to communicate. Also, be careful on the walk off, we missed a cairn and took a 40 minute detour. If you don't see a cairn for 5 minutes....turn back.
Epic climb. Not as long as the guidebook says in the first two pitches (which are very easy). The 5C pitches are good value. NOTE: the 10 meters to go anchor described in the book has been chopped; you will have to go direct to the top. If there is any wind at all it is impossible to hear you partner - we relied on text message to communicate. Also, be careful on the walk off, we missed a cairn and took a 40 minute detour. If you don't see a cairn for 5 minutes....turn back.
nikolai17 13 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Sarah
with Sarah
Benjaminblanc 23 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with lieraz
with lieraz
lieraza 23 May, 2016 2nd First multipitch, thanks Ben! Really enjoyable climbing and amazing views
First multipitch, thanks Ben! Really enjoyable climbing and amazing views
SGD 10 May, 2016 AltLd Route was ok but not in the same league as Wild Country. Walked off which was at 1st well marked then the cairns/markers stopped and we went the wrong way. We did however build a cairn at the top of the actual descent quite by accident.
with vholmes
Route was ok but not in the same league as Wild Country. Walked off which was at 1st well marked then the cairns/markers stopped and we went the wrong way. We did however build a cairn at the top of the actual descent quite by accident.
with vholmes
Ben@Sheffield 9 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Dorte Bjerre Steensgaard 27 Mar, 2016 2nd Climbing was ok, but not fantastic. Big moves required. Lead pitch 1. The Top out to sunny, stony plateau with tiny orchids was lovely. Hangers on intermediate belay on pitch six are missing.
Climbing was ok, but not fantastic. Big moves required. Lead pitch 1. The Top out to sunny, stony plateau with tiny orchids was lovely. Hangers on intermediate belay on pitch six are missing.
Sarah Roscoe 21 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S lead p1+2. took heavy pack up which made consecutive seconding much harder than would otherwise be
lead p1+2. took heavy pack up which made consecutive seconding much harder than would otherwise be
Matt Harmon 21 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S led P3-6 in 3 pitches. should have left pack at the bottom. done in 3.5 hours with a bit of faff due to block leading
led P3-6 in 3 pitches. should have left pack at the bottom. done in 3.5 hours with a bit of faff due to block leading
8fsheeh 27 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
ianburton 7 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S awesome warm up to Wings for Life. How many bolts?
with Charlie's Angel
awesome warm up to Wings for Life. How many bolts?
with Charlie's Angel
watson.b 7 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Brilliant route so many bolts!
Brilliant route so many bolts!
tjekel 25 Sep, 2015 - Last climb with my father - aged 76.
Last climb with my father - aged 76.
Kieran Duncan 4 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Climbed as a 3, led pitches 1, 3, 5 & 6. Great fun, pretty straight forward. Tricky top section up the slab! The walk off in the dark was an adventure in itself, and whoever said it's 20 minutes in the guide is talking rubbish. Nearer 40-60 in the daytime I reckon.
with Scott K, Jamie K
Climbed as a 3, led pitches 1, 3, 5 & 6. Great fun, pretty straight forward. Tricky top section up the slab! The walk off in the dark was an adventure in itself, and whoever said it's 20 minutes in the guide is talking rubbish. Nearer 40-60 in the daytime I reckon.
with Scott K, Jamie K
Hidden 24 May, 2015 AltLd
trevor macalonan 22 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Superb climb with great atmospheric moves high up and friendly bolting all the way. A few difficult moves on the 4th crux pitch could send the grade of this climb up to 6a.
Superb climb with great atmospheric moves high up and friendly bolting all the way. A few difficult moves on the 4th crux pitch could send the grade of this climb up to 6a.
Hidden 22 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
AndyMcCoy 24 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Led 2,4,6
with Dave Appleing
Led 2,4,6
with Dave Appleing
alex toomey 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd
sss138 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice route, the climbing is good but not anything special. Lots of exposure and good positions though and it was good to top out after the route. A bit overbolted in places.
Nice route, the climbing is good but not anything special. Lots of exposure and good positions though and it was good to top out after the route. A bit overbolted in places.
brianrunner u 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd Very nice route. Pitches 4 and 5 are shorter at 20m but with some steep climbing at maybe 5c or 5c+. Sun doesn't arrive until after midday. The descent is well marked by cairns and blue spots.
with martina
Very nice route. Pitches 4 and 5 are shorter at 20m but with some steep climbing at maybe 5c or 5c+. Sun doesn't arrive until after midday. The descent is well marked by cairns and blue spots.
with martina
Giles Davis 12 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2, 4, 5 and 6. Graham led pitches 1, 3 and 7. Great route with some lovely exposure. Thought pitch 4 was around 5c+/6a. Fantastic day out although we hashed up the descent and ended up in the "ravine of doom" and had to scramble out.
with gramee
Led pitches 2, 4, 5 and 6. Graham led pitches 1, 3 and 7. Great route with some lovely exposure. Thought pitch 4 was around 5c+/6a. Fantastic day out although we hashed up the descent and ended up in the "ravine of doom" and had to scramble out.
with gramee
Hidden 8 Apr, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 2 Apr, 2015 AltLd
Richard Kendrick ? Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th
with Josie McCann
Lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th
with Josie McCann
Hidden ??, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 3 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S
Keith Lambley 28 Oct, 2014 AltLd
with Kate R
with Kate R
Mountain Llama 27 Oct, 2014 AltLd P2, 4 and 6. Descent by foot is 45 minutes and not 25! There is also an ab station close to the top if you fancy abing back down
with Paul S
P2, 4 and 6. Descent by foot is 45 minutes and not 25! There is also an ab station close to the top if you fancy abing back down
with Paul S
Pete Nugent 23 Oct, 2014 AltLd Excellent - the best route we did on Kalymnos. led p1, 3 &5
with John Venier
Excellent - the best route we did on Kalymnos. led p1, 3 &5
with John Venier
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 2nd
Hidden 7 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 6 Oct, 2014 Solo Brilliant experience. Great route, good holds and super solid rock. Not bad for my rest day!
Brilliant experience. Great route, good holds and super solid rock. Not bad for my rest day!
Hidden 3 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
tjekel 31 Aug, 2014 -
David Bibby 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Anne-Marie Kristensen
with Anne-Marie Kristensen
Hidden 23 Mar, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 30 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
paulerussell 30 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
with jamesca
with jamesca
Campbell42 15 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S A really great route at this grade. Steepens up after the first pitch to give good exposure. some longer quickdraws would be beneficial to reduce rope drag in places.
with Bob Larkin
A really great route at this grade. Steepens up after the first pitch to give good exposure. some longer quickdraws would be beneficial to reduce rope drag in places.
with Bob Larkin
andyb211 10 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S excellent route good day out drill dust had just settled :)
with Dave Selwyn
excellent route good day out drill dust had just settled :)
with Dave Selwyn
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Kitsos

Grade: 5c ***
(Myrties Area)