Said to be outstanding. Excellent rock, excellent pro and bolted stances.
Access: From the Dam Keeper’s house go down the road to the cable car until you reach a wide open space on the left. A red mark shows the start (5 mins).
Description: (Treat with caution. Pitch lengths differ from topo.)
1. 5c 40m. Start up the cracks which flare and go right as soon as you can to an arête and follow it up to slabs formed by upside down flakes.
2. 5a 20m. Climb up slightly leftwards to a large and vegetated ledge.
3. 5c 25m. To the left of a short steep wall, near the edge of the pillar, climb up an excellent crack to a stance.
4 6a 25m. Go right for some metres up a slab cut by superficial cracks, then climb left and up a set of flakes.
5. 5c+ 20m. Climb directly up flakes
6. 4c 35m. Continue up directly then move leftwards and climb via another set of flakes to a stance.
7. 5c 20m. Climb a slab up to a grassy ledge.
Descent: Abseil or use the Plattenturm-SE Ridge gully by going leftwards along a ledge to reach the top of the gully.
Access: From the Dam Keeper’s house go down the road to the cable car until you reach a wide open space on the left. A red mark shows the start (5 mins).
Description: (Treat with caution. Pitch lengths differ from topo.)
1. 5c 40m. Start up the cracks which flare and go right as soon as you can to an arête and follow it up to slabs formed by upside down flakes.
2. 5a 20m. Climb up slightly leftwards to a large and vegetated ledge.
3. 5c 25m. To the left of a short steep wall, near the edge of the pillar, climb up an excellent crack to a stance.
4 6a 25m. Go right for some metres up a slab cut by superficial cracks, then climb left and up a set of flakes.
5. 5c+ 20m. Climb directly up flakes
6. 4c 35m. Continue up directly then move leftwards and climb via another set of flakes to a stance.
7. 5c 20m. Climb a slab up to a grassy ledge.
Descent: Abseil or use the Plattenturm-SE Ridge gully by going leftwards along a ledge to reach the top of the gully.
Bernhard Falett and G. Lisignoli Jul/1990.
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Route of Interest
Mosaico
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Spazzacaldera)